2001 Jeep TJ Build

[Jeeper2001]

I thought it was time for me to start a thread on the buildup of my jeep. I bought this jeep almost 2 years ago. I have done all of the modifications myself, with help from my dad. I have a lot of things on my to do list but the next mods will be an aussie locker, oil pan skid, Metalcloak Overline fenders. Here is some info on the jeep.

• 4.0 Inline 6 engine
• Manual Transmission
• Dana 44 rear
• Dana 30 front

MODS:
• 3.5 inch Rubicon Express Super Flex lift kit
• 33x12.50 Cooper discover MTP Tires
• Rear bumper
• Rock sliders
• Steering box skid

I do have a couple of questions that I would appreciate getting some input on….

1. My transmission has been very hard to shift ever since I bought the jeep. We have changed transmission fluid and it starts to shift great after I drive it for about 30 min to an hour.(150,000 miles on the jeep) Any ideas as to why or what is wrong?

2. I am also playing with the idea of trying to get a NP 241 Transfer case from a Rubicon because I think my crawl ratio could use some improvements. I was thinking of changing the transfer case because on the road/daily driving I have 3.73 gearing. While this is fine for on road driving, I don’t want to want to re-gear to improve my crawl ratio. If there is a better or cheaper way to improve my crawl ratio I would love to know.

[BroncoJo]

Welcome Cole!

1. Is your clutch disengaging all the way? if so probably syncros
2. Lot's of people have opted to first lower the T-case gearing to improve crawling without affecting street driving, I say go for it.

[colman]

did you use syncromesh transmission fluid. if you don't use that in 3550 and 4500 it will eat syncros

[Sharpe]

Don't let Brian Colman drive your jeep into a mud pit.

[Jeeper2001]

I did change to the syncromesh transmission fluid, but that didn’t happen till the jeep was over 140,000 miles. So, I don’t know if it’s too late for the syncros. As for the transfer case, I think I will start to look around. What do you think my best and most cost effective choice is? The options I have found are a tj rubicon transfer case, a dana 300 transfer case with correct gearing(4:1) and a flip kit, or an atlas transfer case.

[KrazyKarl02]

I would think the rubicon case would be the most cost effective if you can find a good deal on those. I personally hate the Dana 300 case, first you have to find one, then you will most likely have to rebuild it, plus cost of 4:1 gears, while you are at it you should upgrade the output shafts. By the time you are done you will be $1500 to $1700 into a Dana 300. Dana 300's shift like crap and leak. I've had 2, one stock and one with 4:1 and upgraded stuff. If you keep an eye on pirate and some of the other sites you can find a used atlas that is way better than a 300 for ~$2000

[tommy53002]

I would go with the NP 241. I've seen them sell for $1,000-$1,500. Like Karl said, you would have that much into building a D300, but the NP241 is a direct swap for you. The D300 would be stronger, but I don't consider strength a selling point when you are running 33's.

[Sharpe]

NP241 would be the most economical and easy to find. I wouldn't pay more than $200 for one though. Passenger side drops were used in 87-91 Chevy square bodies and drivers drop were used in 92-98 chevies. Slip yoke eliminators are around $700 last time I looked. The gears are plenty strong and the case will be fine as long as you don't smash it on a rock.

[tommy53002]

NP241 would be the most economical and easy to find. I wouldn't pay more than $200 for one though. Passenger side drops were used in 87-91 Chevy square bodies and drivers drop were used in 92-98 chevies. Slip yoke eliminators are around $700 last time I looked. The gears are plenty strong and the case will be fine as long as you don't smash it on a rock.

To clarify, we are talking about an NP241OR (emphasis on the "OR" in that part number). The NP241OR is the rubicon transfercase that has 4:1 low range. It is a completely different case than a NP241 (not just different gears). If you can find them for $200, you should buy them all. They sell fast around $1,000 from what i've seen.

[tommy53002]

Just to add, I believe the NP241OR comes factory with a CV flange so, a slip yoke eliminator is not needed. You would need a new rear CV drive shaft.

[Sharpe]

Neat.

[Sharpe]

Neat

[Jeeper2001]

Update
I got the Aussie locker in over Thanksgiving break, it makes a slight ratcheting sound on turns, but compared to the other sounds my jeep makes it is not noticeable. I am getting some spare u-joints this week and will get an oil pan skid if I can afford it, but other than that I think I am ready for Clayton.