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Thread: Start to an off-road build on a 1988 Cherokee Chief

  1. #46
    Super Moderator CamperSpecial67's Avatar
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    welll looks like zebvance might be hookin me up with the majority of a 4.5in rc short arm lift, just need shocks and rear leafs. my question is what route should i go for the leafs and would 6in lift shocks with correct bump stopping be the way to go so i can get more droop from the suspension? i already have shocks on the jeep rated for 2-4in of lift from rc when i did the 2in bb lift. thoughts?

  2. #47
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Shocks that are categorized by lift aren't always accurate. Since I believe the legendary Tamor RTI ramp is still around, put the lift on, measure your mount to mount shock lengths with no shocks installed and order ones that will optimize your suspension's range. You can temporarily put the stock ones back on for street driving until your new **** gets here.

    I also agree the sliders should be a priority. My personal experience based opinion is that the following make the biggest difference in wheeling capability in order;

    1. Traction (lockers)
    2. Tires
    3. Steering
    4. Sliders

    Seriously, when you aren't worried about crushing rockers and can deliberately pivot off rocks and trees your wheeling capability skyrockets.
    Last edited by Sharpe; 09-07-2016 at 09:12 PM.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  3. #48
    Registered User zebvance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CamperSpecial67 View Post
    welll looks like zebvance might be hookin me up with the majority of a 4.5in rc short arm lift, just need shocks and rear leafs. my question is what route should i go for the leafs and would 6in lift shocks with correct bump stopping be the way to go so i can get more droop from the suspension? i already have shocks on the jeep rated for 2-4in of lift from rc when i did the 2in bb lift. thoughts?

    Sorry bud all that sold months ago. Dont have any old parts laying around anymore.
    1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers

  4. #49
    Registered User zebvance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BroncoJo View Post
    I was thinking more like: "drink beer and **** **** up"

    Also I think college is the best time for non-bolt on projects. Now that I'm married and focused on work (for what ever reason I'm not quite sure) I like the idea of bolt on upgrades or paying someone to do my dirty work. For you I suggest ditching all of your plans and start scouring craiglist for a welder, torch and tubing bender. Learn, build and repeat 1000 times.

    *** it also took me 6 years to get my eng degree because I spent most of my time in the shop, and my only regret is I didn't spend enough time building *******
    Exact same way I think now. I wish I swapped in one tons when I had the free time and linked the rear, those dreams are over now. Work takes priority and the wife now wants a kid. The majority of my wrenching days are over.... and it only took me 7 and a half years to get my engineering degree..... ***
    1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers

  5. #50
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zebvance View Post
    Exact same way I think now. I wish I swapped in one tons when I had the free time and linked the rear, those dreams are over now. Work takes priority and the wife now wants a kid. The majority of my wrenching days are over.... and it only took me 7 and a half years to get my engineering degree..... ***
    yeah, if you think you don't have wrenching time now... Just wait till that kiddo comes along. You'll think back and feel like you had all the free time in the world....

  6. #51
    Super Moderator CamperSpecial67's Avatar
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    no worries on the lift, just means that time and money can go into other things on the list. First meeting was a success, probably close to 75+ came out to flex on the ramp and see what we were about. Some of the guys on the board from BVORR also came and hung out. So it looks like we are back in there as they were all enthusiastic about having us come wheel with them. Of those who came id say we'll gain a solid 20ish+ worth of people who will stick around. Class 3 hitch going on rear of xj soon (got it for free) for a temporary tow point in the back till a bumper gets made or bought. probably looking at hockey pucks for front bumpstops and daystar extended bumpstops with a fabbed up adjustable plate to go ontop of springs so i have some flexibility. Brakelines are a must as they were maxxed out last nigh on the ramp in the pic i have posted with this. power steering is also at the top of my list now as mine finally gave out this week, with fluid coming from the steering box bad and the pump doing nothing to get the tires turned. id like to rebuild the box but the rebuild kit is almost as much as a new one, so might upgrade and go with a durango and figure out a spacer plate to make it work, bolts up to existing lines already in the xj.

  7. #52
    Registered User zebvance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CamperSpecial67 View Post
    no worries on the lift, just means that time and money can go into other things on the list. First meeting was a success, probably close to 75+ came out to flex on the ramp and see what we were about. Some of the guys on the board from BVORR also came and hung out. So it looks like we are back in there as they were all enthusiastic about having us come wheel with them. Of those who came id say we'll gain a solid 20ish+ worth of people who will stick around. Class 3 hitch going on rear of xj soon (got it for free) for a temporary tow point in the back till a bumper gets made or bought. probably looking at hockey pucks for front bumpstops and daystar extended bumpstops with a fabbed up adjustable plate to go ontop of springs so i have some flexibility. Brakelines are a must as they were maxxed out last nigh on the ramp in the pic i have posted with this. power steering is also at the top of my list now as mine finally gave out this week, with fluid coming from the steering box bad and the pump doing nothing to get the tires turned. id like to rebuild the box but the rebuild kit is almost as much as a new one, so might upgrade and go with a durango and figure out a spacer plate to make it work, bolts up to existing lines already in the xj.

    I have the durango box and I wouldn't do it again. There are better options I think there is more benefits to a s10 box but thats what I have heard. Havent looked in to it much.
    1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers

  8. #53
    Super Moderator CamperSpecial67's Avatar
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    What's your experience with the Durango box? And I'll go do some digging on a better option for it because mine needs to be replaced..

  9. #54
    Registered User zebvance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CamperSpecial67 View Post
    What's your experience with the Durango box? And I'll go do some digging on a better option for it because mine needs to be replaced..
    A small strength gain that's really not needed to begin with when the steering linkage is the weak link. And l a loss of turning radius.
    1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers

  10. #55
    Super Moderator CamperSpecial67's Avatar
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    well got a front tow hook welded in from an old tacoma, rear hitch was an absolute nightmare getting out the stock one and putting in the new one, but an all nighter later and i have a much stronger hitch receiver now. since the exhaust was rubbing on my rear passenger side leafs a made a custom cut in the exhaust to have it essentially axle dumped up and out of the way from being plugged or pinched on the trails, and raised the overall rear of the exhaust system a few inches higher than before for better clearance underneath. Now looking in finding metal, and have a couple places im gunna go check out after next pay check so i can start stock piling for front winch bumper, skids for oil pan, trans crossmember and t-case, and maybe even a rear bumper with a tire carrier. but if i run out of time i'll just build a tire carrier to go onto the rear hitch until i can build a tire carrier bumper. Is 3/16 the way to go thickness wise for bumpers? My unibody tie ins are gunna be 1/4 which will extend far enough back to reinforce the steering gear box and front part of the unibody. Also unibody stiffeners are on the list, but we'll see how it all comes together. first things first i need the metal to start fabbing stuff up. Thankfully have a friend in the club who has welding experience so he can teach me and we can start making some stuff. And while all that is going on the steering gear box is getting ordered this week, lca and uca bushings going in tonight, and got a junkyard ps pump that looked mint in the xj we pulled it from so fingers crossed and we'll see how that turns out. I think thats about it for this update, clayton is months away and i am already feelin stressed to get the list knocked out!

  11. #56
    Come and Take it BroncoJo's Avatar
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    bullet points or paragraphs please
    Born to Kill

    Quote Originally Posted by RCcola55 View Post
    I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!

  12. #57
    Big Baller 85cj7's Avatar
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    Bumpers can be anywhere from 1/8 thick to 1/4 thick. I've used 1/4, 3/16, and 1/8. It just depends on what you are using it for and what weight savings means to you.

    I would use 1/4 for skids and 3/16 and 1/8 for frame stiffeners and bumpers. The more supports and bends you have in the piece the more rigid it will be. The more long, straight, unsupported pieces you have the weaker it will be. This is true for any thickness material.
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  13. #58
    Super Moderator CamperSpecial67's Avatar
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    picked up some extended brake lines today, front lines from a 1996 chevy 1500 and a rear line fore a 1996 dodge dakota from what ive read should bolt right in, each giving me about 6 more inches in length. Also got some hockey pocks and hardware for bump stops. going to drill through the spring perch in the front to secure pucks, and fabbing some new leaf spring plates to bump stop the rear. Testing it all out this weekend at BVORR!

  14. #59
    Super Moderator CamperSpecial67's Avatar
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    Well got another update for y'all. Still searching/saving up for the metal I'm gunna buy for the sliders, bumper and skids but tonight got all measurements and a mock up done for the front bumper. Still need a few more measurements for skids, and rock sliders but I'm doing that tomorrow night along with some flush mount pods in the rear that I picked up for free from a friend! It's late, got 68 days to get it all done so the clock is ticking!




    Don't mind the hole cut out in the middle, that's suppose to be flipped but it's late and I'm ready for bed!

  15. #60
    Come and Take it BroncoJo's Avatar
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    Can't wait for the finished product! That front piece looks very big and flat
    Born to Kill

    Quote Originally Posted by RCcola55 View Post
    I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!

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