Oil issues

[BroncoJo]

While he's doing the LS swap he should go ahead and do the one ton axle swap....

Only if he plans on keeping it for a while...

[eight]

Why would new rings last only 10,000 miles? Inframe overhaul can be done over a weekend easy. Really isn't that much to it. Problem is you don't know what you're dealing with until it's opened up as far as condition of cylinders, pistons, and crank. Crank is usually good unless it's knocking or loss of oil pressure, so you've got a questionable there already. If you check compression and all are low but even the cylinders are probably fine. If one is near zero that's likely broken ring/piston which would mess up the cylinder wall. Also the chance it could just be bad valve stem seals.

Replacement used engine is probably your best bet. I usually came out ahead after parting out the old engine.

[KrazyKarl02]

I was assuming with that many miles the cylinder walls would no longer be in good shape.

[CLNethery]

Alright, so I got around to doing a compression test this afternoon and found that all cylinders are below spec for pressure. Spec is 120, mine ranged from 100 -115; majority hitting the 105-110 mark. With an engine that has close to 227k miles on it, I'm not real surprised that they aren't at that factory mark. Since I couldn't single out a cylinder, I'm pretty much still at square one. Next thing I plan on doing is changing oil and dropping the oil pan while I'm at it to see if there is anything there to see (just curious after reading Freds thread from a while back). I've been using Mobile 1 High Mileage synthetic 10W-30, but because it's not cheap and for now I have to keep adding oil on a regular basis; are there any recommendations for a cheaper oil?

[CheapJeep]

About 6 months ago my oil pressure started dropping off to 0 then bouncing back as I drive or keep the rpm up. Not sure if that helps diagnose the issue or not, I considered replacing the oil pump but never got around to it.

Next thing I plan on doing is changing oil and dropping the oil pan while I'm at it to see if there is anything there to see (just curious after reading Freds thread from a while back). I've been using Mobile 1 High Mileage synthetic 10W-30, but because it's not cheap and for now I have to keep adding oil on a regular basis; are there any recommendations for a cheaper oil?

If you were losing/had no oil pressure and kept driving, best case is your oil pressure sending unit is intermittent, worst case your oil pump is failing and likely trashed the rod and main bearings. Not likely you're going to see much by just dropping the oil pan other than potential glitter/bearing shavings in the oil. I would pull a couple rod and main caps to check the bearings.

[KrazyKarl02]

I'm sure someone will disagree with me, but synthetic will seep thru worn out rings more than conventional motor oil. I would go back to normal motor oil, that will reduce some of your consumption. Other than that, it's either new engine or rebuild time.

Well or it's buy oil by the case time....

[mudtoy67]

Well or it's buy oil by the case time....

As a member of the oil industry I approve this method.

[Sharpe]

You could put your roommate's used oil in your truck daily like Ryno did with the Exxon Valdez.

[uglyota]

Even compression sounds like good news to me, no one cylinder wall is trashed, rings are just worn. Spend a weekend putting new rings and bearings in it and call it good

[eight]

If you pull the pan, clean the screen on the oil pump.

Is there anything proven of "high mileage" oil? I always just figure thats marketing bs.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Buy your bargain basement oil from Napa (or whatever parts store), no need in spending dough on synthetic or the like now. You can go to Mustang Cat and get an oil sample kit from them to see what all is in the oil, that's what I use on my truck and equipment to keep an eye out for problems. Part # 1612, I have the little siphon pump that will pull it out of the dipstick tube if you want to pull a sample before you drop the pan/change oil. The tube doesn't fit down the dipstick tube on my wife's explorer, so that might be an issue.

[KrazyKarl02]

Buy your bargain basement oil from Napa (or whatever parts store), no need in spending dough on synthetic or the like now. You can go to Mustang Cat and get an oil sample kit from them to see what all is in the oil, that's what I use on my truck and equipment to keep an eye out for problems. Part # 1612, I have the little siphon pump that will pull it out of the dipstick tube if you want to pull a sample before you drop the pan/change oil. The tube doesn't fit down the dipstick tube on my wife's explorer, so that might be an issue.

Did the sample from the red truck come back with "crank is about to break in half"

[DRAGOONRANCH]

No, but the red truck is the reason I take samples every 12,500 miles (change the oil every 25k) now. I was using the Amsoil sample kits, but found the Caterpillar ones get read faster and are a bit cheaper. Besides, I buy them by the dozen for work anyways.

[CLNethery]

Haven't updated in a while. So I replaced the bearings AND the oil pump, all were original so they had 233k miles on them. That fixed the oil pressure issue, but not the issue with it burning oil. Long story short, pulled the engine over the break to find 3 cracked pistons a cracked exhaust manifold (obviously not part of the problem, just a different problem), and one worn out engine. A month later, it's still sitting at the machine shop getting worked on.
Work on engine completed or in progress:

Overhaul
- grinding crank and connecting rod journals .010"
- boring cylinders .030"
- replacing pistons
- replacing camshaft & lifters

Cleaned & checked head - no issues
Cleaned & checked block - no issues
Checked timing gears and chain - no issues
Replacing freeze plugs
Replacing exhaust manifold
Resurfacing clutch

[tommy53002]

That ought to freshin it up.

So they aren't doing any head work? Seems like, after 233K, a valve job and resurfacing the head would be a good choice.