Rig Sleds (The Trailer Thread)

[RCcola55]

I only use LEDs on any trailer we build. They are well worth the money and since they are flush mount I rarely destroy one. The 36' lowboy gooseneck I'm starting in April will have a 3/4" amber every 16" along with all other federal DOT required lights and $150 worth of reflective tape.

[colman]

i put hf round led on my trailer on the rear 5 years ago and they are still there all working......

[FJAggie07]

Update, got a new trailer.

The old trailer wasn't getting it done since my wife decided to get herself a car of her own to start playing around with. So I decided to get one that would handle two cars. Issue was I really liked the way my old trailer worked and pulled. So I got a hold of Maxey and asked if they had ever done anything longer and in a gooseneck, and they had done a couple and were wanting to do more, so they did a custom one for me. Maxey 36' drop n' load with E-Track down each side and LED's for strapping down at night (worked like a charm to unload last night). I picked it up last Wednesday and towed it over 700 miles this past weekend. Easiest pulling trailer I have pulled to date. The E-Track rocks.

[BroncoJo]

looks slick

[CheapJeep]

How much $ does one like that run? I'm looking at getting a new trailer.

[colman]

update from a few posts ago about hf round flush mount rear lights. finally had 1 diode go out in one of them and it has been in use for at least 6 years

[JB]

Just had a basic square LED go out on my trailer. Think it is the first one I have replaced.

Had two blowouts in the 2500 mile round trip to KOH. Fenders are pretty beat up. If you aren't paying attention, you wouldn't have know either of them blew. The trailer stays straight on. Guess because its a goose? Had only 1 blowout with a heavy bumper pull, and that was pretty scary.

Tires were cheapos from Dixie Tire and maybe 1.5 years old and the trailer was certainly not overloaded. Bought more cheapos from Discount with the warranty.

[85cj7]

Tips, tricks, comments in selecting a weight distributing hitch. The new F150 has some sort of trailer sway control already on it. Is a trailer sway control/weight distributing hitch combo worth the extra dough or stick to the basics? Trailer is a Parker Performance 18ft, steel deck, 7000lb GTW. Truck is 2014 F150, 4wd, ecoboost, max towing capacity is 9,600lb. There are too many styles out there for me to choose without some input. I know Cooke and Fred both use a WDH, which style do yall prefer?

[Fredo]

Where did your chebby go?

I've got a Valley or a Curt Distribution Hitch. I recommend the round bar hitch instead of the trunnion. I like the way the bars engage the hitch better than the trunnion design. I've got a pair of 800lb bars I believe. I use the friction sway control bar as well. It's cheap insurance if it is windy or a super rutted blacktop road or something.

That being said, I typically don't use the distribution hitch with the suburban being a 3/4 ton, but I will still use it if I'm towing more than a hour or two just because it rides better and it is safer. With a half ton, it isn't always needed, but I like to be safe and do the white person thing.

I think Cook uses a Curt trunnion setup, but he's towing a ****load more weight than I am.

[Fredo]

I think Valley may now be called Pro-Series. This hitch and sway control setup is identical to mine except I think those are 1000lb bars instead of 800's.

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-49903-Comp...1560723&sr=1-3

[davido]

This place has some good pricing also...

http://www.adventurerv.net/eazlift-w...d6mbfm40obrhv5

[85cj7]

Thanks Fred,

I got rid of the chevy. I don't tow enough anymore to justify having it and I needed something with 4wd for work.


I got the Pro-Series 750lb bars with sway control and round bars like you linked to and got it set up this weekend. Without it the new F150 was squatting 3" in the back. With it the F150 only squats 1.5" in the back. I think it'll work just fine. Thanks for the link and info.