mine used to clunk, then it stopped. BTW does anyone else here have the manual AC controls and get the letter about the recall on the blower resistor wiring
mine used to clunk, then it stopped. BTW does anyone else here have the manual AC controls and get the letter about the recall on the blower resistor wiring
Originally Posted by afroman006
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
didnt get the letter but mine went out. burned up the connector also.
1976 F-100 Kustom Krawler
1976 F-150 Custom
1964 CJ5
SCARY STUFF.
I was turning into my neighborhood returning from work and heard a huge clunk and the driver front of the truck layed frame!
I limped it two blocks home, jacked it up and crawled underneath it. The driver side, frame end of the torsion arm is no longer connected to the crossmember. The torsion bar and torsion key look fine but the bolt and funky retainer nut were missing. I found them two blocks back in the middle of the road. Here is a pic of what remains.
Crappy GM pot-metal.
Question is: How do I fix this? I found the GM part numbers for the bolt and retainer nut. I think it is an easy as jacking up the front end and installing the new bolt/nut. The torsion key is still 'keyed' on the torsion arm. So do I have to do any of the 'loading/unloading' of preload like you would if you were installing new keys?
I think I know what I need to do but want to make sure. Let me know what you guys think.
I think I would have died if it broke at 70mph on the highway.
Last edited by 85cj7; 02-20-2012 at 08:33 PM.
you will have to use a good c-clamp or similar tool to load the key, then just replace to bolt and retainer, then take that uber gay lift off of your 2wd truck and you will be good to go
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
C clamps will bend. Tire max has bent 3 of them doing it. Rent a balljoint press from advance, its beefy enough to load it.
How do I load it?
Basically just use the clamp to press the torsion bar off the crossmember?
Last edited by 85cj7; 02-20-2012 at 09:49 PM.
Sadly tumtum is right, get a bj press and a good impact, other then that it's an easy fix.
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
awesome.
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
I feel like every problem mentioned recently has to do with chevy trucks...
Yeah, obama motors owners, Just wait until your pitman arm and idler arm wear out . The idler arm bracket likes to **** up. If you buy Moog parts your bill will be over $400
I got it fixed today and even played around with the adjusting screws a bit and brought the front end of the truck down 3/4". I had to use a ball joint press on the driver side and a 7 ton 2-jaw puller on the pass. side to hold the torsion arms in place while I messed with them.
Here is a pic of the broken piece versus the new one. The parts guys told me that GM did a total re-design but he didn't know why. I looked at him funny and said "This is why" and showed him the broken piece. I guess this is more common than I thought.
I should look and see which one my truck has
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
no just one chevy truck
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
Joined the diesel fag club.
2000 f250 w/ 7.3 and auto
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Rice!!!!!!
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
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