Alright the other day I picked up some more transfer cases and it got me to thinking. I now have a 32 spline round gm 205, ford non slip yoke 208, and two chevy slip yoke 208's. I have seen that D&D machine makes a 241/205 doubler, and box for rocks makes a 241/300 doubler. I would like to do something like this, but with a np 208.
Here is a link to Karl's doubler thread that died and Krebs link to his plans are listed inside Karl's thread.
http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11235
Here are some links to some 241/205 doublers the second one i really like because the guy doesn't have to shift the 205 from the rear like the first one does. I have pm'ed both of them to get the overall length from the face of the 241 mounting to the center of the rear t case output yoke.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=757049
I like this one best
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=871556
Most of the homebrew doublers run into two problems:
1. The shaft that goes from tcase one to tcase two(ie whether to cut and reweld it of have a new one made)
2. The length of the combo forcing you to possibly use a 2 piece front d-shaft with a carrier bearing or pillow block.
Well after messing around some I found out that the chevy rear output was 32 spline just like the gm 205 I have. This is when i thought out making this work. The only problem was the output shaft was way to long, and would lead to the above 2 causes that cease homebrew doublers from ever making it past a twinkle in the owners eye.
Next I looked at the ford 208 that I bought to convert my slip yoke 208 into a fixed yoke. Its shaft was much shorter than the slip yoke. Its output shaft is also 32 spline and will fit inside the gm 205.
Picture 1 is of the ford 208 with removed tailhousing slid all the way into the gm 205. The total combo from the face of the 208 to the center of the rear yoke on the 205 is 27 1/7 inches.
Picture two is the ford 208 case and shaft, if you cut off the threaded part of the output shaft you could get the combo down to 26 1/2 inches which is only 5 inches longer than most versions of 203/205 doublers. Once an adapter was made you could run a stock ford 208 shaft and not fear shaft failure because of a homeade(welded shaft). It would also be easy to get a new shaft if it was ever to break.
Picture three is a stock chevy 208 slip yoke case next to the 208/205 combo. The slip yoke case is about 7 inches shorter than the whole doubler setup.
Picture 4 was used for me to get a rough estimate on how much longer my front d-shaft would become with the 465/208 adapter and the 208/205 doubler from the face of the trans.
The early model trans and 205 that I have in my truck now used much shorter adapters than the late model 465 that will be going in its place. From the face of the trans to the front output of the t-case my driveshaft would become 15" longer than it currently is using the doubler setup. I have plans to move my front axle another 3" when the one tons go in, but this would only hurt my huge front driveshaft. With the axle moved forward two inches my rough driveshaft length would be 48".
What I need to know is how long can my front driveshaft be and what is the max angle I can run using a 1330 chevy flange or double cardan joint? I have seen a couple two piece driveshafts made on pirate that use carrier bearings, but these complex shafts cost quite a bit in materials and parts to build which negates the fact of a cheap doubler, plus those two piece shafts look like they may be the devil incarnate!
Like most abortions that I create cost is part of the the reason I think up retarded things like this. Rough cost to do a 203/205 setup behind a 465 as follows- gm round pattern 205($300), adapter/shaft/kit($550-$650), 32 spline 203($75-$150 depending on whether you can find one that came behind a th400(32 spline or you have to buy a new input for it) for a grand total of around $1000-$1200 to get 4:1 gearing.
Cost of the frick ghetto doubler, gm round pattern 205($300), ford np 208($30), gm np 208 to get the 32 spline female input($50). Then lets say you spend $150-$200 in materials to make an adapter you are still out the door for around $600 to get 5.13 gearing. Even if you had a intermediate shaft made to the tune of around $200 to make the combo a couple inches shorter your still 2-4 hundred cheaper than the 203/205.
MOST LIKELY THIS WILL NEVER HAPPEN BECAUSE MOST TIMES WHEN YOU CHEAP OUT YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR, and this will become another failed doubler thread, but I really think this is doable concept.
Any info on the driveshaft lengths and angles of what people are running or that didn't work would be great.
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Originally Posted by Fredo
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