He has had some long hair lately so I was just wondering if I got confused, as I have known a few female 'Robbies'.
Thanks. I'm planning on building an ice chest rack down the road. You can't really tell in the pics but there is enough room in between the seats and cell to fit my green igloo and tools. That's the main reason I made slant panels for the bed so I would have more space.
Finished up the brake lines. Snagged some rubberized metal clamps for the brake lines and fuel lines. Also picked up a trans/flywheel dust shield, chiney... Working on wrapping up the anti-wrap setup. Originally I was going to do a "traditional" anti-wrap bar but with the narrow frame there wasn't enough room between the d70 housing and perches for the brackets. I didn't want to have to weld on the nodular iron and mess with nickel rods. So instead I built a little different setup.
Brakes look nice, I noticed there is no loop right out of the master cylinder like on stock cars. Thoughts?
I would also watch where you put your welding ground. When I weld to an axle I put it as close to the place I am welding as possible.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Damn...with all that surface rust I'd think you were living on the beach...
I like the idea for the anti-wrap bars, except that it seems to me like you would have a lot of binding during flex. With your bars triangulated like that, I think you would be creating kind of a "roll center" like you see on a 4-link. The whole axle is going to want to pivot around the link mounts, and you'll be fighting sideways movement of the leaf springs. Make sense?
BDR
I don't want this to sound bad, but have you ever thought about using a tube bender on the brake lines? You've got this sweet looking engine, sweet master cylinders etc... then you tie them all together with some rough looking hand bent lines? I little hand bender only cost like $6 and is really easy to use... Just a thought - it's those little details that end up making the rig look good - or ghetto
Here is Lynda's:
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...=lynda&page=24
Scott, FTAC '99
'62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
'89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
'05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
'08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
scott.schubring@williams.com
The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!
Thanks Scott, you're right. After going back and looking at the m.c. lines they look like arse and I rushed through it. I'm going to pick up a brake line bender and do it right.
I think I get what you're saying BDR. Hopefully I won't run into any binding issues but we'll just have to see. I would think with leaves you would have much less to worry about over straight up links.
The surface rust is ridiculous, everytime I open the shop there's more and more. Stupid humidity. I was sweating pretty bad during the middle of the day last week and leaned up against the tube fender. Came out later and it was already covered in rust.
Karl, I know what you're talking about and wasn't sure on whether or not to make loops in the lines. I see that mainly on power/booster brake setups not on manuals but I could be wrong. What are the loops helping, building pressure?
Also, when I was welding the truss on the axle I had the ground clamped on either side of the housing. The pic you see with the ground on the spring mount is from when I was tacking the link mount to the frame you see the link attached to.
loops are for body flex and movement.
...
flem wins
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901