either way, just cant be red IIRC
if you dont get this thing inspected, and make it driveable im gonna kick you in the nutz.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
here are the pics of the front bumper
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/album175
Clayton Rollins '08
210-863-1435
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 5.9
1983 Waggy
Got a little question here. Is usefullness better than looks? The way I want to work the rear bumper is below. 4X2 Rec tube flat on top of bumper to be flush with rear panel. I dont want to weld it flat on the side of the bumper because I will have a 2 inch gap between the tube and the panels. I didnt raise the bumper(even with the panels) because the frame would still be hanging out anyway, and not ready for the dovetail look just yet.
Ghey?
Clayton Rollins '08
210-863-1435
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 5.9
1983 Waggy
I'm not following on your question. Why can't it work and be clean looking?
On your lights, I would just mount them in your grille where they'll be protected. I wouldn't put them in your bumper. They'll just end up getting smashed. The other thing I might do is top mount them on the bumper so that they're not on the edge. I would have to see that gap on the ends in person with the light, but you have several options. Lots of openings around the grille area.
You might also run some straps over the front welds if it's not really supported from the rear. Check out a pic of Fred's front bumper for a better explanation. I've seen a few of those types of bumper break at the weld with a good hit (since the welds were grinded down for good looks). Just a thought.
Keep up the good work. Don't forget to weld your diffs and get a gas cap. For a budget fix, you could try just moving your current tank inside. I've seen it with TJs where they put them in the back of the tub instead of underneath. Stock tanks. $0. You could probably even keep the current fill hole with a little working. Just throw a sheet over it and roll down the windows when you get it inspected.
Last edited by davido; 01-14-2008 at 01:38 AM.
The disco ball in my mouth, insinuates I'm ballin'
Thanks Ed.
Im still going to cut some plate to reinforce the bends.
Ok back to the rear. Rear hangs 2'' below the body line. The 4x2 is as the picture shows. The fender guards will be the same 4x2 Rec tube layed flat on top of the bumper, stick out about 1/2 '' from the body line, the rest is under the body. (3.5'')
Clayton Rollins '08
210-863-1435
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 5.9
1983 Waggy
What is that piece that is attached to the right side of the black 4x2? Is that the frame? If it is, I don't see why what you are planning won't work.
Yeah, you're going to have to Solidworks that for us.
EDIT: Take a look at Graysons or if you can find a picture of RJs Cherokee. Maybe it will give you an idea. I think you may be over complicating it.
Last edited by davido; 01-14-2008 at 10:38 AM.
The disco ball in my mouth, insinuates I'm ballin'
well nixed the idea of the fender guards for now. Got the rear bumper capped and primed. Gonna finish reinforcing the front, and cut holes for my kcs and add some plate for my turn lights and then prime it. will bring the camera tommorrow.
Clayton Rollins '08
210-863-1435
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 5.9
1983 Waggy
ok pics are up just need to get some yellow lights and were set. Need to get the lock put in and hook up my horns and I think well be good for an inspection!
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/album175?page=3
Clayton Rollins '08
210-863-1435
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 5.9
1983 Waggy
new to me ps box on. Need to bleed a little more and put on a new rag joint.
What gear oil do dana 20s prefer?
Clayton Rollins '08
210-863-1435
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 5.9
1983 Waggy
make it happen...
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
dont encourage me! someday....
Clayton Rollins '08
210-863-1435
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 5.9
1983 Waggy