gears and lockers
cage and 8 lug axles
budget carefully and get option 1 and 2...
beer and hookers, fook the truck!
insurance co is sending me a check for $7300. i have to have ford sign off on it since i am still paying on the truck. after that, i will spend half on bills- and half goes to my truck. here is one way i intend to burn some cash. the DOTTED lines are INSIDE the cab... the SOLID lines are X-cage. questions? comments? ideas?
I think the cage should be priority #1... get that built and designed right... I would recommend beefier rockers than a single tube... possibly move the internal dotted vertical line to the outside of the truck, and add a little triangulation.
I also think you could get a 14 bolt and D60 installed for the money, but you wouldn't be able to afford tires.... hence I think you should find me a set of D60's and we'll work out a deal in trade +cash to swap the 60's you find for my D44 and 9" which woul mean you could run MY tires... or your 35's...
Doug
new axles THEN gears and lockers
i say cage first then axles then gears and then lockers.... although beer should be involved with the instilation of all of that hookers wouldnt be a bad thing either but instead of hookers just get some sluts... their free
if those bars are outside the doors, i won't be able to open them.Originally posted by Krawler68
I think the cage should be priority #1... get that built and designed right... I would recommend beefier rockers than a single tube... possibly move the internal dotted vertical line to the outside of the truck, and add a little triangulation.
I also think you could get a 14 bolt and D60 installed for the money, but you wouldn't be able to afford tires.... hence I think you should find me a set of D60's and we'll work out a deal in trade +cash to swap the 60's you find for my D44 and 9" which woul mean you could run MY tires... or your 35's...
Doug
i might not go 1 ton axles... it depends on what i find and for how much$. i might try to find half ton axles out of say a late 90's dodge ram...
well duh, beer is an important part of any project. although my sarge said i should stick to liquor bc its not as fattening.Originally posted by Shaggy
i say cage first then axles then gears and then lockers.... although beer should be involved with the instilation of all of that hookers wouldnt be a bad thing either but instead of hookers just get some sluts... their free
***... i call bullchitOriginally posted by bigFAWKINranger
where would i ever find sluts? i don't associate with those types.
Bad idea. Late '90's Dodges used auto hubs and vacuum disco fronts, not my first choice for a swap. Figure out what drop you need/want and go from there.Originally posted by bigFAWKINranger
i might not go 1 ton axles... it depends on what i find and for how much$. i might try to find half ton axles out of say a late 90's dodge ram...
Go 1 ton. I can't imagine you regretting going too big. Drivers side = Ford. '78-'79 Rev. cut high pinion. Passenger side = GM or Dodge. Rears are simple, 35 spline D70 or 14 bolt. Better gear selection for the 70.
well i WANT to find a 92-97 F350 to get axles out of.... leaf sprung, 8 lug, full width, and i can keep my VSS...
Why would you want to do that?Originally posted by bigFAWKINranger
...leaf sprung, 8 lug, full width, and i can keep my VSS...
Originally posted by bigFAWKINranger
if those bars are outside the doors, i won't be able to open them.
i might not go 1 ton axles... it depends on what i find and for how much$. i might try to find half ton axles out of say a late 90's dodge ram...
I am saying you should put the vertical bars behind the door and outside the vehicle...
I think you should get me some one ton axles and then work a trade for my built and locked 1/2 ton axles... they're all you'll need.
Doug
Those kind of benders kink tubing pretty badly... you can do like Scott and build youir exo out of sched 40 pipe... then that bender will work OK...still not mandrel bends but not unsafe.
Doug
WHat brand is that? It's a tubing bender...should work OK... I would recommend you have a cage professionally built or get the help of people who have built cages... they make bending and fishmouthing SOOOO easy... trying to build one in your head and then experimenting usually means there is a much shoddier product upon completion.
Doug
its a 4 door- i'd rather dent up my doors on occasion when i DO roll, than protect them and render them useless to me.Originally posted by Krawler68
I am saying you should put the vertical bars behind the door and outside the vehicle...
I think you should get me some one ton axles and then work a trade for my built and locked 1/2 ton axles... they're all you'll need.
Doug
i want full track width.. i like the idea of wider stance... and once i lower the ranger down some i won't need to worry about rolling all the time. we'll see what happens with my check- ford still has to sign off on it... and i am offering them $1000 off the top to cover an overdue payment plus some.
i have access to a hydraulic bender. i will use .180 wall DOM... at less than $2 a foot, and approx 150 ft, and the axles i am not fully DECIDED on yet, but they will not be a dana 30 and a 7.5"Originally posted by eight
Same problem he just went through. It don't shift right without the sensor. Don't have to be picky on the front axle, just rear. I vote for an exo if you do a cage. For $3650 you should be able to build a cage if you can get a bender and do it yourself, get a 44 front and lock it, some sort of rear and weld it, and buy tires and wheels.
OK, bender question, I can borrow a hydraulic bender whenever I want. The guy that has it makes cages out of 4" tube with it but has dies down to 2". It's one like in the picture below, but bigger. This isn't the right kind is it?
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