Originally Posted by BMFScout
did you just worm clamp the hose onto the barb fittings? no leaks?
did you just worm clamp the hose onto the barb fittings? no leaks?
isthat rig upside down or am i crazy
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
yes on both, check out fuel pump thread. No leaks thus far.
Boats and hoes
Stumble in to the liquor store
With a dollar-fifty for a bottle of wine,
I know just what I'm lookin for
Thunderbird will do just fine.
Some minor alteration. . .installed new turn signal lights up front, (so they work now) and installed relays into the stock cj wiring to brighten the headlights, the best $25 dollar mod i've done so far.
Last edited by 85cj7; 01-02-2009 at 12:10 AM.
well i went outside on tuesday of last week to find about a 3 foot long stream of diff fluid comming from the drivers rear outer axle seal. So why i am waiting for parts i thought it was a good time to get some work done.
1-replaced all front and rear spring bushings
2-installed some jks b2 front spring plate skid plates that i bought a while ago
3-and i made and installed some skid plates for the rear, i used the stock front plates and stock rear plates, to make skids and gain an inch of clearance
4-when i took out the axle shaft i found the wheel bearing race had split in two, whcih is probobly what caused my sudden leak.
some pictures of the rear skid plates i built
Last edited by 85cj7; 01-02-2009 at 12:11 AM.
some pictures of the b2 front skids, i still need to cut off the extra bolts
Last edited by 85cj7; 01-02-2009 at 12:11 AM.
the broken wheel bearing
i got the 2x4 rocker sliders all finished and ready to weld up, but when i mocked them in place i just didn't like how they looked and expecially didn't like how low they hung, so here is what i came up with instead, they are 4"x6"x3/16" angle iron with 1.5x1.5 box tubing steps.
I made plates like this when I was still spring under. They work good. I kept them when I went spring over because I'm cheap and I think they help keep the springs from "fanning out." Much easier to get the nuts off, and they accomplish the same thing.
http://ih.off-road.com/ih/article/ar....jsp?id=264098
You needed an excuse to buy ratchet wrenches anyway, I don't know how I lived without them.
I like the plans for the rock sliders, Will that go almost to the door openings? That's the way to do those.
Boats and hoes
Stumble in to the liquor store
With a dollar-fifty for a bottle of wine,
I know just what I'm lookin for
Thunderbird will do just fine.
no joke. i bought new headlights thinking that was my problem. it didnt help. when i put them on relays it made a world of difference. now, everything on the scout is on relays. horn, turn signals, lights. its a good way to get around having to replace a 35 year old wiring harness.
the sliders will go about 1.5-2" from the door opening, but right up to the bottom of the jeep emblem, if i went with 5" or 6" angle iron I would have to cut a notch for the joop. I'm also thinking about tieing it in to 2 body mounts on the underside, but I don't think they are 100% necessary.
here are the pics of the first rocker guard with step, all that is left is to drill holes for mounting and paint, and build the passanger side one. Turned out pretty nice, I ended up going with 5x3x1/4" angle and 1.5x1.5x3/16 box. Does anyone think these need to be ties into body mounts or with 4 to 5 bolts through the side of the tub be plenty?
the way i figure it, with the rails on there, its better to tie them in. if your jeep sits down on the rail, it will create a moment that could buckle your rocker. without the rail, theres no moment and the load goes straight into the tub.
btw, they look nice. good work.
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