nope, the bb's go to the low spots and make everything ballance out. google it if you want more specific info
nope, the bb's go to the low spots and make everything ballance out. google it if you want more specific info
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
Not impossible, just a PITA. Doing it "right" involves shaving the tread to make it perfectly concentric and taking them to a heavy truck shop for balancing ("normal" tire balancing machines are not big enough to do anything over ~35").Originally Posted by colman
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
the airsoft pellets are freaking great, they balance really well up to 50 (fastest i've gotten it up to) and make a great 'wooshing' noise at low speeds.
22" with a wheelbase of 95". I shouldn't be dragging my belly over much.
-rewired electric fans, now have one on an on-off switch and one thermostatically controlled
-Replaced bent front center pins
-Added 'spring retainer' plates to front u-bolt plates to stop the leafs from spanning out
-Shortened front d-shaft by 1 1/8"
-Braced up skid plate and added protection for transmission
-Made new anti-wrap bar crossmember
-Added factory seals to 609 hub/shaft flange instead of rtv
-New tranny hump cover plate
Still need to fix my temp gauge, the needle no longer moves, checked the wiring and everything appears ok, i think it my be the coolant sensor, need to look into it.
you can balance out tire 37+ on a 'normal' machine. you just have to know what your doing. the problem is they don't hold a balance for very long so its pointless.
I was having some serious steering binding issues when I turned more than 20 degrees and horrible front end chirping issues. Corrected the chirping by properly adjusting the toe and replacing all the bearings and seals in the front spindles/hubs. And found the tie-rod was making whoopy with my leaf springs when I turned.
I don't want to drop the cash on high steer arm spacers/studs. So I built some 1/4" spacers from plate (thickest I could go with the 3" studs). The nut now sits flush with the studs on the knuckles. Steering is much better. No chirping and no binding (at least on the road).
I need to flex it out on the RTI ramp and turn lock to lock to see if thel tr still rubs the springs under compression. We will see.
Last edited by 85cj7; 04-09-2010 at 04:05 PM.
lets see a pic of this sweet spacer
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
pic of arm spacers
pics of sweet spring retainers and tie-rod and spring clearance
take a leaf or two out of those spring packs and it should help as well
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
6y6f must be yiddish for "driver cant drive standard."
Last edited by jerryg79; 05-01-2010 at 09:02 PM.
who moved my wheel base?
I got the welds ground down, smoothed out, and a little body filler was needed, self-etching primer is applied and driver side is mocked up with the front bolted in. I've got to say I'm pretty proud of the body work.
The story on the sides is that I got them for half price because they are for a yj so I filled the fuel filler and hinge holes as well as extending the guard 1.5" downward to meet my rocker guards. Again, pretty proud of the way they came out, can't even tell I modified them.
Looks good
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
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