I have a 3/8" thick plate on my diff cover. Tie rod is 1.666" OD. They hit. But I think the tie rod is a little bent, should be. I'm gonna turn it over so it's bent away from the cover.
I have a 3/8" thick plate on my diff cover. Tie rod is 1.666" OD. They hit. But I think the tie rod is a little bent, should be. I'm gonna turn it over so it's bent away from the cover.
okay, I've got the D70 for the rear, but its a dually, so where do I find disc brake brackets for it?
**** discs. Really, what good are they for? Maybe if you're in mud alot. Other than that they're just a pain.
more holding power and easier to change pads.
read somewhere that drums were better than discs in the rear. i'll agree that if gravel gets in the drums (47) then you have to take the drum off and clean the shoes, but other than that, meh
1976 F-100 Kustom Krawler
1976 F-150 Custom
1964 CJ5
Well my dodge still has original shoes on el d70 and his toyoda will be dead long before it gets that many more miles. Or if it does last that long it'll be kinda a milestone achievement and cause for celebration. You don't think 1 ton drums will lock up 38s? Just one 3/4 ton drum will lock up 2 38s.
My 1/2 ton 8.8" drums have held up just fine with my 38"s.
1974 CJ5-The BarnBurner
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
blah, why a dana 70? I'd get a 14 bolt just for the cheapness of the detroit. I can't imagine wanting to daily drive a welded rear. You become soft after driving something nice.
I always hated the drums when we used to go in rivers. Most of the drums on the older full floaters are pressed in with the lugstuds. Getting the rocks out meant pulling the whole axle shaft and the hub.
1988 Blazer...RIP
I went with the D70 for several reasons
1. lower gear available (important for spinning 38s with the 4cyl)
2. there is no flange available for using a toy driveshaft on the 14 bolt
3. I planned on welding it anyway, and 14 bolt detriots are really not that much cheaper
4. 35 spline shafts factory
6. it only cost me 50 bucks, so why not?
i never thought of just running drums. How much does it cost to rebuild a set of drums? Everyone always seems to upgrade away from drums as quick as possible and it would shed some weight. Also, because this is a dually would I have to worry about the drums sticking out of the wheel so far they would get smacked on rocks all the time?
rebuilding drums is not expensive or hard, i think the shoes are usually around 15-30 bucks, and a hardware kit which is usually needed is 10 or less. So add in getting the drums turned if they need it and you can rebuild the drum brakes for prolly- 60 bucks or so.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
drums it is then.
this place is boring, so I'm gonna add some tech.
Need some bushings for something like spring hangers, suspension links, or other various projects, but don't want to pay 10+ dollars a piece that most places charge for them? Then here you go.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Just use a piece of 1.75x.120 DOM, or 1.5 Sch 80, and you'll have enough to do 6 sets of bushings with either of these. On the jeep one, it comes with two 1/2 sleeves, and two 9/16 sleeves, or you can use 3/4 inch bolts if you don't want to use the sleeves. Anyone know what size sleeves the chevy ones use?
One note on the second ones, only the procomp bushings use the same size bushings all around. If you order a different brand or part number, two of the six sets will be smaller
Last edited by CRaSHnBuRN; 10-21-2006 at 05:02 AM.
this is not a good idea, the sleeve is there so u can tighten the bolt down on the bushing without crushing it and u also need unthreaded surface for the bushing to have something smooth to rotate on. They don't last very long with no sleeve either , ask me how I know?
oh, I know to use the sleeve, but in some cases someone may not want or need to, and would like to know the ID of the bushing, so I threw that in there
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