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3 Attachment(s)
Electric fans!
Finally got around to installing my Ford Windstar fans in the burb. I decided on electric fans because when I did my body lift, the instructions directed me to remove the bottom half of the fan shroud, and that was it. Obviously this hurt the cooling efficiency of the stock system so something had to be done. Rather than bother with the stock system that didnt work that well anyway, I decided to upgrade to the elctric fans, since they are more efficient and just an all around better way to go. I chose the windstar fans because they are supposed to be an almost perfect fit for Chevy radiators, there's about a 3" gap at the bottom but its close enough for government work. For those that dont know, the winstar fans have 2 fans, one slightly larger than the other, and the larger one is a two speed :gigem: .
I got the fans off ebay for $30 and the controller from summit for $65. Another $30 for circuit breakers and wire and some free junkyard relays and I was good to go. I used a wiring diagram I got off coloradok5.com but modified it to work with the features of my controller (a/c on, manual override). I wired two switches to my uber-console, one for manual override on and one for manual off. The override on one works but the off one doesnt... I will have to look into that one but will not worry about it for now. I mounted the controller, relays and breakers on a plate next to the radiator. Here's pics; first is exposed wiring, second is a close up of the panel, third is everything all loomed up.
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cool. hey, is that a new alternator?
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It sure is. 140 amp powermaster. I've had it for awhile though.
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holy shnikes, you could fit a box fan from wal-mart in there, I am jealous, mine's a bit closer
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Have you noticed any driveability differences? Does it cool pretty good? Ive been debating doin the same to the heavy chevy and thats a pretty good deal for all that.
If my tpi computer has a wire for electric fans can i eliminate any of that extra stuff?
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I cant say for sure on the driveability differences as I've only drivin it around the parking lot at my apartment to get the engine hot enough so I can adjust the temp that they come on at. I have to say, on the seat-o-thepants dyno I think it was worth 10 hp at least. If your engine has an electric fan wire, I'd say you could eliminate the controller (big black box at top) and just use the wire to activate the relays.
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well my seat of the pants dyno says that stickers add about 5 hp each, well just kidding, you should have driven over to Nick/Coopers/CJ's/Bens and done it there, it would have been alot of fun
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What year fans did you use?
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no problem getting the radiator hose to seal around the copper?
Looks sweet...about ready to put mine in...
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Actually, the controller came with a little moon shaped piece of rubber with a slit in it for the copper line to go through. When I drove it around the parking lot yesterday it was leaking but I only tightened the hose clamp with a screwdriver. When I was putting the loom on I tightened it some more with a wrench so hopefully it'll stop leaking. If it doesnt I'm thinking about putting some orange RTV on it. Only thing with that is I'm worried about being able to get the hose off, anyone have any other suggestions?
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a razor blade won't cut orange RTV?
;)
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Does the copper tube with your kit have to go into the radiator hose? Most of the electric fan kits I've messed with you stick the copper tube through the fins of the radiator near the inlet, or secured in contact with the tank.
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I did it as the directions said to. It did not say anything about being able to stick it in the fins. I did consider the between the fins type as well as the ones that have sensors that screw into the intake manifold. I did not want to go poking stuff into my radiator fins and I could not find any of the screw in type that had adjustable temps so I chose this one.
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i had the same kind of sensor. it will seal in a couple days. the rubber is trying to conform to the irregular shape of the copper tube. the rubber hose will conform with heat. tighten a little bit each time you shut down, it should go away. if not - i thought black RTV works best w/radiator fluid?