My buddy Kyle (the guy with the red YJ at clayton the last two years) is doing a 5.3 swap in his jeep, and he is looking for a 205. Think his plan is to build a doubler. If you have one laying around that you want to sell let me know. :gigem:
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My buddy Kyle (the guy with the red YJ at clayton the last two years) is doing a 5.3 swap in his jeep, and he is looking for a 205. Think his plan is to build a doubler. If you have one laying around that you want to sell let me know. :gigem:
Drop side, input spline count and adapter pattern?!?!?
driver drop, I dont know on the rest of it. He just said to keep my eye out for a 205 when I was leaving the gym yesterday and I said I would post this up.
Craigslist ford 205 I found one for pretty cheap without to much trouble
I have one laying around.
I do too.
Thanks guys..snagged one this weekend.
Looked at doing 203/205 doubler but length/weight with and having just 3 spds.
Found NWF's blackbox or ORD's magnum underdrive units to put in front of the 205. Have a true 4 spd case for about $1k less than a 4spd atlas. Will weigh more but should be a few inches shorter.
I ran the Klune/205 combo for a while and loved it. I think DavidO still runs the combo when ever he gets his Land Cruiser out.
What is your wheel base? I was going to do the same thing, but because of the rear driveshaft angle I went with an atlas 2 speed case. My wheel base is about 108", I would like it to be longer, but with 108", a TH350, a klune or doubler it gave me a realy crappy rear driveshaft angle.
Wheel base is 109"
Running 5.13's
Karl, are you talking about a 203/205 doubler or were you looking at the underdrive on the front of the 205?
A 203/205 doubler is 21.5".. the blackbox or the magnum underdrive box is 5.5" + the 205 length of 12.5". So this setup should be about 3.5" shorter than the 203/205 doubler.
My current 231 is about 19", so I should be ok with the transfercase.
My concern is with the 5.3/th350.. I think the th350 is going to be a few inches longer. Just don't know how much I can make up when setting the engine in place.
5.13s
I don't think it has anything to do with whether its a doubler or not..Just what overall low you end up with..
I'm running a tf999 now with 4.1 on my 231.. I wish I could go lower sometimes, but overall it works well. I thought about keeping the 231 since it has 4.1 in it but its a $700 adapter to go behind the th350 and its a weaker case compared to what I'm looking at going to being chain driven.
I'm curious if the change to 5.3 will give me what I'm looking for in the low end? I have a buddy running a stock dana 300 with the 5.3/350 and he says it works well for him but wishes he could go lower sometimes. Stock 300 has 2:?-1
I definitely want the option for twinsticks with whatever I end up with and 4spds would be nice to choose from and not spend $3500....Can't bring myself to spend $2500 on a 2spd atlas when I can get 4spds with the 205/underdrive for the same price.
Karl, how high is your rear yoke from the ground?
My YJ sits pretty low with a flat skid so that may be the difference in angle???
My jeep When I got it had a sbc with an sm465 and Dana 300, the distributor on the sbc is about 3/4" from the firewall. My t-case hangs about an inch below the frame when clocked flat. here are my notes.
Dana 300 - 11.5" long (flange to rear yoke center), driveshaft length 30", horizontal distance to pinion 29.5, vertical 12.5. This results in around a 24 degree u-joint angle. My numbers will be a bit high for the angle because I did not account for the slight angle the drivetrain is at.
Ford Doubler setup - 21.5" long (10" longer than Dana 300), this would make my driveshaft 21.5" long and at ride height it would have a 35 degree angle, if the axle drooped 6" the angle would be over 45 degrees, this is not good....
klunes, it is kind of like a less white trash doubler. The klune pushes whatever case you have back like 5.5" where my doubler pushes it back like 7", so you are marginally shorter than the doubler set up, you say 3", i said 1.5" difference, it still gives me driveline angle issues.
Here is my problem, I want to run the ford driver's drop axle, I want to be in the 100 + gear ratio, this means I need more than 2:1 in the t-case. Here are some options:
ATLAS - Obviously atlas makes a case you could buy, bolt up and be done. Problem is it would cost $2k or more....
Dana 300 - Flip the Dana 300, there are lots of threads on this, even one where they do a really shatty $20 flip, but that is too shatty for me. So, say I flip it for $200, then I would have to put a 4:1 kit in it, this is $575. Then to seriously run the 300 I would need to atleast upgrade the front output and possibly the rear. I would be $1200 or so in making the Dana 300 work. I blew a dana300 up last weekend in my other rig, **** that thing.
NP205 - Make the Ferd 205 bolt up to the SM465 (a quick note, the SM465 is about 4" shorter than the NP435) and put a 3:1 kit in it. 3:1 kits are like $900, so I would be into this like $1000, since then I realize they do not make 3:1 for a Ferd 205
In the end, I looked around And swapped to a th350. I picked up a 5:1 2 speed atlas for $2000. Yes, it's a little more, but no mounting issues, no super heavy doubler, and a decent rear driveline angle. I loved my doubler in the klogger, but I was 120" long.
Thanks for the info.
Just checked mine..at static my rear driveline is at 16* at 19.5" long center of yoke to center of yoke.
WTF, this almost looks like tech and something useful on the forum???? Quick somebody post some crap about painting grey smoke on your tail lights.
Thanks Karl, now you have me wondering if I'm headed in the right direction with the 205 with underdrive.
Another option would be the Stak Mini monster 3 spd...comes in at $2700..13" long
Ruining dreams, it's what I do....
I really like the idea of the Stak 3 speed case, I think if they could make it work right, it would be a kick ass option. It is my understanding that Stak (or whoever owns them now) no longer makes the 3 speed case. When I was looking, I determined a stak would have to be pretty f'ing heavily discounted if I was going to buy one, here is the pirate thread, enjoy!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...d-problem.html
That being said, Robbie and Schubring both report no issues with their 2 speed staks. Save your pennies, buy an F-350, lift it, light bar, get some bro-dozer glasses, and buy an Atlas, then like me, you ca be just like everyone else. Oh get a barbwire tattoo also!
kyle use a 700r4 and you can use the 231 without an adapter
Kyle already has a 7.3 F-250, and a jeep. He is basically a brodozer special.
Makes the atlas case seem like a deal.... :flipoff2:
I like my 4 speed. I don't use super low very often though. And sometimes when I do I wish I was in a higher range. If you go that direction really look at the range choices. I was so concerned with my lowest I didn't pay attention to how close my middle two speeds were to each other
Your 4 speed or the companies 4 speed? Sorry I get lost easily.
I forget what ranges you have in yours, but with the 2.7 and 3.8 in mine there is a decently noticeable difference to me. I use low/low a bunch myself, though the fowtyfoes and 4.56 in the rear need a pretty good reduction when creeping around. I tend to use the reduction box as the prefered means of shifting speeds in the box as the twin sticks are a bit harder to shift.
(1:1, 2.72:1, 3.0:1, 8.16:1) and I too use the range box more as I haven't broken in the twin stick well enough yet
Missed out on a pirate deal yesterday for a atlas 4spd for $1500...guy said he sold it 30 minutes before he got my message. DAMN my luck!
Still up in the air which direction I'm going to go for transfercase. Would love the options of the 4spd, just don't know if I want to spend that much dough on a new one. Hopefully a deal comes around.
That is crazy low. I ended up in mine for almost 4k