whats everything i should get. . . pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and alignment tool. Anything else? Should i replace the rear main seal sinse i'm dropping the transmission anyway? It already leaks like a b*tch.
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whats everything i should get. . . pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and alignment tool. Anything else? Should i replace the rear main seal sinse i'm dropping the transmission anyway? It already leaks like a b*tch.
just get a kit. it'll come with all that. to replace the seal, it would make it easier but you'll probably have to drop the oil pan too. not sure on that motor
that would make since you need a jeep pressure plate and disc to mate to the transmission
I've got a fresh 5.0 flywheel and clutch kit in Dallas if you aren't in a hurry. make me an offer, I think its for the t-18 size input shaft ( 1 -1/8? )
will this work for my jeep? if so how soon can you get it. I'm going to dallas this weekend if that helps.
i just got home and everything is still here, i took a look and the clutch friction pad is definently new but what about the flywheel and pressure plate, i also saw the throwout bearing. How did you have everything that fits my application? Ford 302 flywheel with 258 clutch? I definently owe you one, and some cash. What do you want for your trouble. Thanks again, man, this is great.
i don't know if it fits or not, i can't remember the application, but the flywheel is h.o. ford, and the clutch is ford something or other. measure the hole in the clutch and look up your transmission input shaft size to know for sure if it will fit
i bought it for my truck a long time ago and ended up having to use a truck flywheel instead of a car flywheel for the starter to work on the zf transmission I swapped in, don't have the truck any more and it was taking up space.
its been sitting in a storage unit for a few years, I didn't even look at the pressure plate. is there rust on it or something?
theres is a little bit of surface rust, but on the pressure plate there is two bits of weld that don't look factory, so i thought maybe there was a story behind that. So are you saying that the clutch is not for the inline 6 258 jeep 4 speed t-176. cause thats what i need.
you need one for a ford flywheel that has the same spline count and bore as a t176. I don't know if ford and jeep use the same pressure plate bolt pattern, so one for a 258 might not work if you purchase a clutch kit.
I think t176 is a 1 1-8" 10 spline. I'm pretty sure thats what the clutch disc that is in that box is for.
Don't know about the weld. Like I said, I bought it new then found it it wouldn't work with the starter, lost the receipt and it ended up in the mystery pile. Is the weld holding on a weight?
IF it doesn't work, don't worry about it. I was more interested in emptying my storage unit.
okay so your pretty sure this is what i need. You know a lot more about this area than i do. The welds light be holding on weights. I'll show you the next time you stop buy and we can talk about it somemore. Maybe I can even convince you to give me a helping hand when i decide to tear into it. thanks again
search for the spline count of the t-176 and diameter and compart that to the cluch. you need only concern yourself with that and that the pressure plate will bolt up to the flywheel for the 302/ flywheel will bolt to the 302, the rest will fall into place (assuming the tooth count will match your starter)
ok well i got all this clutch stuff figured out, heres whats whats
Jeep-clutch friction plate (Hays street/strip $105)
-throw-out bearing (self aligning $40)
-alignment tool ($5)
Ford-Flywheel (got it from flem)
-Clutch pressure plate (got it from flem)
Custom-pilot bearing (Novak conversions $26)
But i've got a question about the ford pressure plate that flem gave me its got two welded pieces of metal that look like weights -what are these- and is it ok to have them? Also there is some surface rust on the machined surface of it that won't come off with brakecleaner. What should i do about this. . . get it resurfaced?
the gf gave me my birthday present early yesterday so i spent yesterday afternoon installing seat heaters in both the passanger and driver seat bottoms and backs, not the most hardcore mod that i've done to the cj but man is my ass going to happy tomorrow at 7 am in 45 degress. :gigem:
I finally got the jeep back together after rebuilding the clutch master cylinder and putting in a new slave cylinder. replacing those was the easy part it was connecting the two that proved difficult. Two flares were cracked on the hydraulic line, so i had to wait untill yesterday to get a new line made from bryan hose and gasket. I hate fittings. the clutch is a little better but it still needs to be changed out. hopefully in the next two weeks.
WARNING LONG POST-god where do i even start this post. i finally got the balls to change the clutch out today,
the tear down went relatively smoothly, flem and i started at about noon and was done about 2. I had to cut off the rear driveshaft u-bolts from the yolk on the dana 300 because they had been crossthreaded. But that wasn't the least of the jerry rigged cr*p we found on the jeep today. :mad:
first of all the starter can not under any circumstances be removed unless dropping the transmission or removing the header. yah fun. then we had to replace the starter to solinoid cable because it had melted to the header (reministent of pigpen, i just escaped pulling a robert). And then the evidence about how great the previous owner was, started to become apparent. The pilot bearing was the wrong one, and so was the throwout bearing, the bellhousing was filled with oil because a plug in the back of the block that held the oil in was finger tight, and the clutch disk and flywheel were totally scorched.
We couldn't get the old pilot bearing out, so i cleaned the tranny,x-case,bellhousing, and crossmember while flem drilled the old bearing out? i dunno-true flem style. i tried to ignore what he was doing because the sound of drilling on the crank was scaring me. got everything back together including a new rear main seal, battery cable, and u-bolts. untill we got to the four transmission to bellhousing bolts, 3 worked but in one of them the bellhousing was stripped because the po used bolts that were to short so we replaced them with longer bolts and everything is fine now.
Finished, so tomorrow i have to re-teach myself how to drive a stick cause i'm surpised this thing drove how it was before. now its time to :cheers:
so thank you to flem and a lesser thank you to ryan for comming over and tightening 3 bolts while drunk-cheers biatch