Manufacturer says don't **** with it.....has 225k....I'm buying it.
Obviously I'll clean it off, but not much else in the area that could leak.
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Extended diff and tranny breathers... Think plumbing them to the airbox will puke fluid through the filter?
Does your trans ever overheat? I know with my C6 it would burp every now and again, the diffs I would not be worried about.
I don't think it overheats, but its a dummy light that I have never seen light up in 14 years
Then go for it, I think when my C6 was burping, it was because there was a significant amount of water in the trans, ohh and I was running 37's with stock as gearing in a rig that was a bit heavy....
I'm sure in a roll over it would suck, but in a roll over you have engine oil issues also...
Where do you plumb a ps cooler into? Before the pump, before box, after box ?
On the low pressure return line from the box back to the pump.
TSB for death wobble
http://dig.abclocal.go.com/kgo/PDF/T...E-ADVISORY.pdf
What are you guys using for rock lights these days?
Walmart cheapo lights. Work decent too
I've seen those off-brand single pod light bar units used as rocklights. Way more durable than wal-mart **** and plenty bright.
I put some from O-riellys or Autozone on Lynda's. They are like 4" x 1" or a little smaller. Getting them small enough is the key so you can tuck them away.
I plan on something more like this for the new buggy:
http://www.roundeyes.com/LED_Lightin...Light_Kit.html
or something like this:
http://www.roundeyes.com/Products-Reverse_Lighting.html
Get some of the multicolored, blinking LED strings so you can match it to the tunes and your feelings. :)
Hf work lights. The housing is rubber and the lenses are really thick. $12 ea too.
I have see some of the ones like Scott posted, but I can not believe the 3m adhesive is going to last forever, I wish they had something like that with 2 holes for a bolt or rivet
Parents car, 2003 Yukon XL Denali, 6.slow
Both front seat heaters and all power to the driver's seat don't work. Fuses are fine........
Heard that the body control module has to be reflashed? Common problem?
Anyone have any reviews or suggestions on DIY bed liner? I really want to bed line the tub of my jeep, but if the products suck then I won't bother.
do not use the Kevlar duplicolor bedliner.
I've used Herculiner in three rigs, decent results. The key is, just like any automotive finish is to prep, prep, and prep again. Once you think you have it prepped, prep it once more. Also a light first coat helps a lot.
Good deal, by prep do you just mean the sanding and whatnot?
yeah.
Sanding and cleaning. They are equally important.
whatnot isn't very specific.
Pressure wash the **** out of it. Degrease the **** out of it. Pressure wash again. Scuff the **** out of it with a red scotchbrite or 220 paper. Pressure wash again, degrease again. Clean once, twice, three more times with acetone or thinner. Tape off what you don't want it on. Wear gloves, old shoes and a tyvek suit, the stuff sticks to skin forever. Very light first coat, let it sit for an hour or two. Then pile on two more coats with a few hrs between each.
They all are about the same quality, just different textures. If your time is worth something then go give an extra hundo to Brett at Texas truck riggins and get it done the right way!
+1 for Texas truck riggins
Nice, I may just have to do that. I don't want it to look ****ty.
So I'm pulling out of my driveway in Arlington and the check engine light comes on. Waited 'til I got back to check it out. Code didn't apply to my vehicle, so I just cleared it and went about my business. It was in the O2 sensor ballpark, but like I said, it didn't apply. It hasn't come back on after a few days of driving, so am I in the clear?
What do you mean it didnt apply?
don't go with the description they give you, lookup the number that corresponds to your code and look it up. I have had the same problem with Autozone the scanner came up with a Ford code when they scanned the Chevy.
This is my programmer/code reader, so it should give chrysler codes.
But the interwebs say Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 3. It should come back on if something is legitimately wrong though, right? I mean, it's an O2 sensor so either way I'll get to it when I get to it, but still...
Any 2stroke gurus?
I have a dirt bike (rm250 1999) that has plenty of power in gears 2-5 but in first it sputters through the power-band. I would say 80% of the time it sputters and the other 20% it rips right through the gears. This happens when the bike is warm and I've already checked the reed valves which look good to me.
Thanks in advance
I have deleted those heater resistance codes before. Sometimes they come back and I'll replace the indicated O2 sensor or cats. They don't come back. Cats weren't cheap, but all four on the F150 bit the dust. One bank around 160, the other around 200k
It certainly doesn't run rough and I get **** gas mileage either way so it's kinda hard to tell. I feel like I have been getting meh gas mileage as of late, but like I said, that doesn't mean much. :confused2
I sure as hell hope that the cats aren't burning out, I only have about 63,500 miles on that thing.
Mine was coming on every time I got gas from this one station in bryan, manual says it can happen. Never really stressed it because it wasn't consistent.