UPS guy stopped by today and left these!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psfgejdkzf.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psylpuhcuz.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps49dwgpv6.jpg
Printable View
UPS guy stopped by today and left these!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psfgejdkzf.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psylpuhcuz.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps49dwgpv6.jpg
Got any plans to bring the ass end down?
Nope, leveling the front with the rear. Got A new set of long arms that are going on as soon as I can get the new front axle all finished up.
Just ordered front and rear Spartan's and some pretty beef shackles to put on with the long arms.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps36332c52.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...pseea19254.jpg
I have always wanted to try those tires
Got my rims in and my lockers. Hopefully I can get them and the gears put in this week if I get the time.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps47x4wth8.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psippd1a3c.jpg
Small update, Got the new OEM mopar fan hub bearing bracket replaced and everything back together$($500.00 later from the stealership). Guess what? That wasn't the squealing bearing. Turns out it was the alternator the whole time. I'm kinda in a predicament because I wanted to upgrade to an aftermarket 160amp alternator, beef all the charge/ground wires to 4 gauge and run dual battery in the tool box to handle the load I have. Problem is it is going to roughly run $750.00. After buying the tires, rims, lockers and fan hub bearing I am tapped out as far as funds go right now.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...pszicvgvnq.jpg
So, turns out in the fully loaded mjs with ac, they came with a 100 amp alternator instead of a 60 amp alternator. Advance had this with a discount code for $70.00. So that is the fix for now. I put it in and see how it goes. Maybe the extra 40amps will be all I really need. If that's the case I will plan on still beefing the charge/ground wires and I still want a larger reserve so I will hook up dual batteries in the tool box in the future.
One small issue however. Was trying to put the direct bolt in alternator in last night and the casing is a tad bit larger. Well it is a hair too big to fit in the alternator bracket for some reason. While I was replacing it I also found that the PO had broke off the second bolt that holds the alternator on off in the alternator bracket. The plan is it pull the whole bracket off this afternoon after class and shave it down a bit for better filament and weld a bolt to the broken off bolt stud and pull it out.
If it's worth doing, its worth doing right....
How is an alternator swap going to cost $750?
Quote:
Originally Posted by zebvance
Like fixing a broken ignition switch?
Based on his postQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Alternator ~$150
Battery ~$100
All new cables and wires ~$100
New Alternator Bracket ~$200
Fuzzy Dice ~$200
Just my guess.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
No, that's why they make screwdrivers
$750 for the whole set up
$300 for the alternator
$250 for two new batteries
$100 for smart isolator
$100 in wireing and misc terminals ect.
Everybody's definition of the right way is diffrent I guess.
And there was nothing wrong with the ignition switch, the ignition key cylinder was busted.
When I put my 160 amp alternator in I had to grind the bracket too. Supposedly a tj bracket does not need clearancing, but the bracket may not fit in the mj engine compartment.Quote:
Originally Posted by zebvance
You spent 500 dollars trying to fix the wrong bearing (what's the part number?) And get butthurt when someone calls you out for cutting corners on the ignition switch?
I must have missed the ignition switch thing. Do you use a screwdriver too?
*** nobody is getting butt hurt. The part number is 8953002902. The shaft had play in it so if that's not where the noise was coming from it was on its way out anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Put the new alternator in and realized the alternator bracket had a big crack in it. Cranked it up and it still has a squeal. After talking to Junior he suggested that if the rubber ring in the harmonic balancer was in bad shape it could be throwing the belt out of alignment and causing the squeal. I picked up a new harmonic balancer; new belt and I'm supposed to pick up a new alternator bracket today.
In the mean time while I was waiting on parts yesterday, I replaced my Trans Temp gauge because back light in it stopped working and wired up a small light above the switch panel so I could see them at night.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...pscmbhxqb1.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...pscwmgiilg.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psz735qs80.jpg
Also trouble shot a reverse light issue I was having. They were very erratic. First I noticed my dimmer switch had a short in it with a multimeter. So I replaced that. Then I started metering other things out and found I had a weak ground to the whole Dash panel and added a ground to it. The reverse lights are working well now but you have to drop it from park to drive to reverse to get them to come on. So now I'm thinking it is the Neutral Safety Switch. However the back light on my climate control is also not coming on except every blue moon. So when I get the time ill pull that out and see what's going on with that.
Anyway ready for this thing to be running right so I can get this lift on.
I have never seen a Jeep want to be so ricer/fast in my life. That rocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by zebvance
Replaced the harmonic balancer and put a new belt on. Squeal Is gone. However it still will squeal when you put your foot into it hard. Dropping off my d30 to get geared and locked today hopefully after I pick up my deer meat from the processor. Im going to drive the truck to the coast one last time this weekend to drop off a item to a customer before the thing is ripped apart again.....
Belt tensioner
Belt tensioner is a manual adjusting bracket.
Shackles came in. Pretty beefy!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps1a91ac4f.jpg
Dropped off the dana 30 Thursday to Bryan Drivetrain to get the 4.10s installed and the spartan locker put in. Hopefully I be picking it up in a couple days.
on another note, took the truck down to matagorda this weekend. Put about 400 miles on it total. Ran great. Still has a little churp coming from one of the pulleys until it warms up. Cant tell where it is coming from. Had to go down there to load up the truck bead full of drift wood for a order I have for my business. Also had to drop a order off to a customer. This is the last trip the truck will take before the long arms and 35's are on. If work and school permits I would like to get the old axle out and mock up the long arms before the end of spring break.
Here is a few pictures I snapped playing around on the jetties. The truck did pretty good for only having 2wd right now.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps018465f6.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps2b2ea192.jpg
Well finally got the axle back with the 4.10's in and the spartan installed. I got ripped off it cost me a arm and a leg and took for ever...... oh well nothing I can do about it. Its done now. Hopefully I can install ball joints this weekend.
To those who have set up gears befor, How does the pattern look?
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psw8kjzw6n.jpg
pinion depth looks is a lil deep. as the gears and bearings break in that pattern will start to move even further to the outside of the ring. coast side is gonna make some noise from the looks of it pattern, way shallow in the tooth
How much did you pay for the install? I'd take that back and say try again.
too much. It was done by bryan drivetrain. Is it really set up that bad?
according to this its look pretty decent.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps9f421b0b.gif
it used to be 125 plus parts but im getting old
Why ask for opinions if you're going to ignore two pretty knowledgeable people that both agree the pattern is off?
I have only set up a few sets myself and I wouldn't leave it like that. Moving a few shims around would make a world of difference.
To set up gears without a pinion depth measuring tool(which most shops don't have) takes a ton of time to get right. U have to b prepared to tear everything down multiple times ,most shops will not do this. I charge 200 and still lose money on them. Did a 8.8 few weeks ago took 6 hours an five different shim combos to get it close enough to run.
Got a new paper weight in the mail today... The pitman arm I have now is 3-6 inches of lift. this one is for up to 8 inches. Should be good enough for the 8.5 inches of lift thats about to go on it.
Still going to have to drill/taper it to accept the 1 ton chevy TRE I got on it now.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psfjoe5sf6.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psomlytxvm.jpg
Why do you plan to lift it so high (8.5")? Aren't you just running 35's?
Yup, I'm running 32's with 4.5 inches of lift right now and rubbing like crazy. I want to be able to run the 35s and not rub without chopping up the fenders. Its mostly a beach rig so the COG is not so much important for what it is being built to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy53002
no douching around in the sand without rolling over now.
Isn't that half the fun?!?!
Idk ask Sam. He rolled a brand new rzr over in the sand.
:angry:Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Quote:
Originally Posted by zebvance
You know you have to drop the bumpstops at least 1" for every 2" bigger tire you add, right?