If you ever look at how warn suggests you mount an 8274, what Seacrest did is way stronger.
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If you ever look at how warn suggests you mount an 8274, what Seacrest did is way stronger.
Shake down run today at Bridgeport OHV park. I had never been out there before but it was affordable, close, and ended up having plenty to do. I started out by just following around a few newbies but ended up on one of the hardest trail sections in the park for a little while at the end of the afternoon and it was a VERY good indicator of what was working on the jeep and what wasn't.
1-Ratchet strapped fuel tank only stays in place for so long
2-Welded front ends do not turn. I am tired of having to jump out and unlock the hubs to make tight turns
3-Un-locked tool boxes produce large projectiles when trying to bounce up a ledge on an incline. My brand new $100 fire extinguisher tried to decapitate me
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03041.jpg
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http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03079.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...65262296_o.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...h_MOV03083.jpg
Okay, the first step to get the steering better is to finish up where I want the tie rod and drag link to run so the geometry is unchanged when I add hydro-assist.
The axle was pushed 1" forward and rockstomper high steer arms with 1" spacers were added to move the tie rod to behind the axle. This completely eliminates any chance of the tie rod and drag link making contact, moves the tie rod (and ram) even more out of harms way, and gives me some much needed room to run the hydro-assist ram. It also eliminates the inverted y steering that I was running with the "1 ton" tie rod ends. I feel that true crossover steering was always the better option.
Total wheelbase is now 99.3375". Just shy of 6" of total stretch over the stock wheelbase.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03100.jpg
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It only took 5 years but the rear of the cage is finally tied into the frame.
It is 1.75"x.120" tubing and some 3/16" plate sandwiching the floor with (2) 9/16" bolts per side.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03117.jpg
I think these angles look good. Let me know if anything looks funky. This is hard pass. side, so full compression of ram.
I'm going to put the u-bolt mount in double shear just to be safe.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03123.jpg
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get that ram parallel to the tie rod. Like it is there it is going to try and rotate the tie rod
Really? Maybe the pics are deceiving. I went and threw a level on it for you. Not sure how you can get more level than that.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03131.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03130.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03129.jpg
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Are you serious?
Ok, I understand what you guys are saying now. I was thinking that level is what mattered not parallel. Now I see that both are important because tie rods have 360 degrees of rotation, I'm not sure why I was thinking in only one plane.
I moved the fixed end to the closer u-bolt end and it looks much better. It can not go any more parallel without the cylinder making contact with the tie rod when the steering cycles; I checked.
Think it's acceptable?
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03133.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03132.jpg
if you extend the mount on the tierod then you should be able to get the cylinder closer to parallel and in plane like it needs to be