I didn't. I drilled a 7/8s hole and used these. Way easier and don't have to worry as much as trying to drill a tapered hole top dead center and level.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../inssteer.html
Printable View
I didn't. I drilled a 7/8s hole and used these. Way easier and don't have to worry as much as trying to drill a tapered hole top dead center and level.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../inssteer.html
Breaking five drill bits doesn't sound easier or cheaper than reaming. Nice work regardless. Props for getting an axle into a car trunk.
I have the same on my rig.Quote:
Originally Posted by zebvance
reading is not your best skill is it Tommy?
looks good and I hope you put some locktite on those spacers
Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Yea I put one metric **** ton if locktite on them.
Next up is the 8.8 install. Ordered a swap kit with the truss from iron rock offroad.
Also ordered a matching diff cover for it and all new brakes, cross drilled and clotted rotors and some bilstien 5100s.
Checked to make sure of the 4.10 gears. No burnt oil. Everything looks good.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps40b46fc3.jpg
Cleaned up
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps01e7bdf7.jpg
All tacked in place.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0a9ddac7.jpg
Got rid of this jumble of mess while I was under there and swapped in a 96 grand Cherokee proportion valve.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psdd15fcaf.jpg
WHERE DID EVRYTHING GO?!?!?!?!!?!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psb04e11e1.jpg
Getting welded up
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps718ef7d5.jpg
All Welded up. Accidently didn’t put the shock mounts level with each other. Don’t really care though. Not going to mess up anything. I started to redo them but I realized that I didn’t have enough room to get the cut off wheel in there to cut them off. So oh well.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps089d348c.jpg
Time for Paint!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psb0716255.jpg
Cheers!!!!!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps4621b218.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps12f1ed4c.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps234394bd.jpg
And she is under the truck!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps38177232.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps5ca6b4b8.jpg
ALL DONE!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps5f569a10.jpg
Clean!
You taking this thing to Alto?
Nope. Front axle is has bent tubes and 3.55 gears. Wouldn't be to great with the 4.10s.
Hell, just don't put it in 4wd on the hard pack, you'll never notice it! That, and since the axle is already bent, who cares if it tacos completely! It'll make for good video!
Oh, and did you notice your shock mounts are askew a tiny bit..... :flipoff3:
Man, you get stuff done. Nice!
Thanks!
Looks good.
Only thing you might want to rethink is cutting off those shock mounts and moving them up higher(level with the axle tube). They are probably going to get ripped off at some point and possibly destroy a shock with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
The Truss didnt leave much room to do that with out making custom mounts and mounting them to the truss its self. I let them go and hopefully they hold up. I guess we will see.
If you don't want to relocate the shock mounts, I would suggest boxing in the bottom side so the entire mount can't get tweaked.
Your brake lines are also in some danger. I rotated mine on the caliper so they go up instead of back...
Quote:
Finishing up the rear axle
I made new brake lines. Replaced the driver's side explorer brake hose with a second passenger side brake hose. The driver hose on the explorer is a double hose combining the frame to axle hose with the axle to caliper hose. I picked up a hose from a 77 F150 for the new frame to axle hose.
I also rotated the hoses on the brake calipers. From the factory the explorer brake calipers have the hose facing backward. This made for an awkward bend in the hose to mount it where I wanted on the axle. I cut a groove the width of a sawzall blade in the tab on the caliper using the hose end as a guide. This was just the perfect amount to rotate the caliper hose upward and still be rotationally locked by the tab on the caliper.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../XJ/IMG201.jpg
cut
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../XJ/IMG198.jpg
rotated
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../XJ/IMG199.jpg
finished
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../XJ/IMG205.jpg
Nice work on everything. :beer:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
I will plan on that cause I am also concered about the shock mount. Boxing them in is def worth doing. As for the brake lines I have been looking into how im going to relocate them.
Ended up bending the tubes on my dana 30. Thought it was ball joints. Got it checked out and they told me the would have to get and install offset cambered ball joints to fix the negative camber. Then told me but that still won't put it back into the right camber specs, it will still be off by a degree or so. So that tells me it's deff bent. And all the measurements have told me that that the short tube it bent any way.
So I was looking for a waggy narrow trac d44. And can't find one. But I did find a unmolested low mileage tj Dana 30 for dirt cheap so I just picked it up to get it back on the road quicker. I know I know. I should hold out for a stronger axle but I don't have the time for that.
We'll got the replacement dana 30 back from sand blasting. Makes it look 100 times better. Going to go ahead and order these things for it.
Xrf ball joints
Poly sway bar bushings
Moog hubs bearings
Us standard 4340 shafts.
Spicer u joints
Artec truss with Jonny joint uca mounts
Thinking about getting
C gussets and a stronger trac bar mount.
I already have a 4.10 center section that I'm going to swap in.
I also will be swapping over all the new parts I just put on the old bent d30. They have about 50 miles on them. Calipers, brake pads, cross drilled and slotted rotors, and ODC diff cover.
I know I'm spending a lot of money to build up a not very good axle. But after already swapping the 8.8 in I wanted to stay the stock width as the Dana 30 ( or very close to it atleast.) so my only solution to that is a narrow track waggy d44, which I have been looking for for the past 6 months and been unsecessfull for finding one at a reasonable price. Or a tj rubicon d44, which are going for 1000-1400 on craigslist. I'm not going to do that either. the last option being narrowing a axle, and that's something I don't want to bother with.
So the game plan is rock this and the 8.8 for a couple years (hopefully).
Then when I'm out of school I'll be able to drop some serious cash on tons and build those.
Here is the powder coated axle. Got it done locally at Texas truck rigging. These are the same guys that powdercoated my bumpers and I do not wish to do business with them ever again. Terrible customer service, and they are a bunch of dick holes. I thought they gave me a pretty decent price when I dropped it off with the sway bar to get done. $60.00 then took them 3 1/2 weeks to do what they told me was 45 mins worth of work and then they bitch at me saying that I ripped them off and they made no money off it because they quoted me to cheap?!?!?
Anyway. Rant over...
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psc4a789ce.jpg
Run it! Though the rubi axle would be a nice upgrayyed.
Good to know about Truck riggins, I have always heard mixed reviews.
Just put my order yesterday for the following:
Dana 30 27 spline 4340 us standard chromoly axle shafts with spicier u joints
Artect Dana 30 truss with Jonny jointed UCA Mounts
Artect C gussets
and some USA Alloy Upper and Lower Ball joints
Got about the best deal I could of on all of it. $790.00 Out the door shipped.
However. The wallet hurts and the GF will be PISSED when she sees the packages coming to the front door throughout the week....
Mail stuff to work. Then she never sees it.
Haha, that wouldn't work out. My office is my garage.... I started my own small woodworking business.
Got a little work done today and also got the last of my parts in.
The USA standard 4340 chromoly shafts and alloy USA chromoly HD balljoints came in.
Also got the artec truss and c gussets in. Had to trim the truss a little bit. This is the upgraded truss with the artec jonny joint upper control arm mounts.
In the picture you can see the gussets and truss in place. The lower gussets are sitting on the buckets because they are not tacked on yet of course.
Went ahead and cut off the old upper control arm mount to mock the truss.
I'm also going to plate in the lower control arm mounts instead of buying some heavy duty ones for 100 bucks.
Also I have the 4.10 oem center section I'm going to switch the carrier to this axle sitting on the shelf behind the turdy 30....
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps5b4f04c5.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psfa461211.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psac24a8c9.jpg
well my ignition messed up and was stuck in the on position and wouldn't let go of the key. So, I just wired up push start. Cheap and easy fix.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps17fb9fdf.jpg
Switch on the left is the fuel and starter switch on the right is acc ( Radio,ect)
Why spend money on that stuff instead of buying a new ignition switch?
We'll it wasn't the ignition switch that went bad it was the key cylinder. I didn't replace it for a couple of reasons. One it cost the same amount to do the push start, two I didn't want to pull the steering column apart again, three the push start was easier to hook up, four I loose my keys all the time, and five it's kinda neat..
what kind of anti-theft security do you have? Your key is always in the ignition now.
Key is not in the ignition, and there is a hidden kill switch to the starter in the vehicle.
Not much of a update but scored a tool box of craigslist. Big enough to hold spare axle shafts!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...pstyjcfpps.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psd6bnnmn7.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0ajievaa.jpg
Little update, Had the fan hub bearing go out on me. Found someone that had a NOS for 50 bucks. Saved me about $430 by finding it. Should be in tomorrow. Hope to put it on this weekend and start welding up the truss, installing ball joints, gears, and new chromo axles then installing the long arm lift next week.
I am tired of looking at all these new parts sitting on my shelf....
In about two weeks ill be ordering new rims and rubbers with my tax return.
35x12.50x13 baja claws and summit nomad wheels
Any particular reason you want to run the claws? Just wondering. I don't see many people run them except for big tube buggies running the really wide ones.
Sand, that's where my mj spends most of its time. The tread pattern to me looks like it is a perfect mix between road friendly and offroad performance with sand. Even the side wall will help in sand at lower psi's.
you going to run them backwards like a lot of sand guys do?
Nope
Got some work done to the new d30. Welded on the truss and upper and lower C gussets. Also added some plate to the lower control arm mount and boxed in the passenger side coil bucket.
This is about as strong as a D30 can get I believe.
Next on the list:
- Put the new chromoly ball joints in
- Attach and drill the Knuckles for the tapered 1 ton steering
- Install the 4.10 gears
- Install the Chromoly Axle Shafts
- Paint
- Install brakes,and diff cover.
Hopefully I can get this all done with in the week and this time next week Ill be pulling the old axle and putting on the new long arm lift.
Here is a before and after
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...pswxirahha.jpg
And here are some more shots of the axle
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps1ibx3v6n.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...pskso3gzmp.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...psumwfret0.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps6py6gnnb.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps6mn6yhfz.jpg
Made up my mind that I'm going to go ahead and order some lockers while I'm here. Thinking a spartan for the d30 and I think a limited slip will be best for the rear.