Yes, you kind of "roll" them onto the knuckle ball first, then install the knuckle. After the knuckle is in place you just slide them up to the back of the knuckle and bolt on the split retaining plates.
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BTW, Chris Feller is parting an 80 series...
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=27952
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1279950107.html
Would the three shafts be lined up perfectly straight, or would the center shaft not have some angle to it?
Like this.
The blue being the axle shafts, the red being the CV's and the green being the upper and lower A frames.
if your knuckle is set up correctly it's a straight line from the center of your wheel bearings to the center of your diff side gears. Even with the wheels turned or in your picture, nothing's really moving very fast, the balls in the joint are just kind of wiggling back and forth on the race.
Yes, being a straight axle would be different. Damn you Grayson and your Gehyness!!
i know that I just worry about it getting the grease hot and then slinging it out w/ the centrifugal force.
never mind on the grease vs. other stuff...looks like grease is the only way to go b/c anything else will leak out from what i've read on other forums. seals and knuckle are not good enough.
Oh ya, I forgot I learned that the hard way. My first FJ I got in high school. It hadn't been run in many years so I took it to auto shop and got it running. I completely rebuilt the brake system as well. Not long after I got it home I did a little more maintenance. I saw the plug on the top of the knuckle and said hey look a fill plug! So I put about a 1/2 qt of 90 wt in each knuckle.:laughing: It was all on the ground by morning and I found myself redoing my front brakes. :homer:
Ok couple of questions. went by the yards in Fort Worth and no used birfield for an 80. Called yota jims in CO and he thought he had one and quoted me $65 on a used one, I told him I would take both. He called back and his were non ABS. crap. I called the place Eric posted they have one. He quoted me $350 for a used one. I told he was way high on his price and he said the computers were already off and he would call me back tomorrow w/ a more accurate price. I'm not holding my breath.
My plan was to get a new pass side birf and then swap sides w/ them so they would wear the other side. Read it somewhere... sounds like a good idea.
Anybody have one? Are those cheap new ones worth a damn or am I better off getting a used one? I went by the dealer and they wanted $765 for one.
Also want to do seals and and repack all the bearings etc. Who has the best rebuild kit...I don't necessarily need all new bearings...mainly just want all the seals, lock tabs, etc. Or am I better off piecing one together myself? Do yota guys use a gasket b/w the spindle and knuckle like it shows? drive flange? or do you just use permatex or something?
gasket. there is an inner machined surface that the cv rides against. rtv is an unknown thickness.
RTV is your friend.