how come you went with leaf springs insetad of coils?
could be that hard to track down a set of radius arms and get some weld on nubs.
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how come you went with leaf springs insetad of coils?
could be that hard to track down a set of radius arms and get some weld on nubs.
i have heard that it is a pain to do on a dana 60 front. i know some guys with 78/79 broncos and they say there is a lot of work involved to get it to fit right and all that.
I originally thought it would be easier and cheaper. It is cheaper, but I would say not enough to make a difference in one's decision. I also thought it would be diffiflut to to get the 60 set up for coils and for my wrenching level, leafs just seemed easier. I know it would not be that difficult but it's done know. It will articlulate with the coiled 60'd Bronco guys fine and be stable.
Also, Austin, how is that steering of yours working? I was looking at the old pics and think the way you did yours will work well on mine. Where did you get the heims?
his steering is working just awsome... it turns much better than it did stock... i cant remember where the heims were from but you could search for it... i know he mentioned it like 20 times
I found it, thanks.
stupid question, but how is a jam nut different than a regular nut?
Its thinner. And you'll have a hard time finding a fine thread nut anyway. Check with Ace bolt and screw, they ordered a bunch of the 3/4" when I needed some. Order some misalignment washers too. Or who da thunk it but I went by extreme offroad and they now stock heims, weld in threaded inserts, and misalignment washers. Kinda high prices but if you got in a bind, they got em.
yeah...so...those inserts xtreme carries, take a guess who makes 'em? ME. i made 10 last week at Vilas. We charge them an assload but they are more than happy to pay it. Stop by some time and talk to Gary about how much they'd charge regular customers. I wouldnt count on it being cheaper than a catalog tho.
I am really happy w/ my steering. As shown, Heims came from JEGS, cheapest chromo heims w/ teflon inserts i could find in about a week of looking and going to stores. Tate might even be willing to part with the tubing he has laying on our garage floor.
Bronco looks good man, hope to see it on the trail soon....maybe even make a trip w/ TAMOR and not just w/ Scott and Warren, who for some unknown reason have refused to join TAMOR for 3 years now. (I dont want to know why, dont hijack your own thread, i really dont care that much)
I still have DOM.
They haven't joined because they didn't think some of our rigs deserved to be at the truck show and were rather cocky about their rigs. [runonsentence]Some of our members met them and were pretty disenchanted so they spoke out against them on the forum and the guys ended up reading it and deciding not to join the club, partly because some of us were jerks, and party because they are too good for us.......[/runonsentence] :rolleyes:
PRECISELYQuote:
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
(I dont want to know why, dont hijack your own thread, i really dont care that much)
i wont part with my tubing damnit... i swear one day i will get around to working on the bronco
I wondererd why I saw your truck at Villas last week.Quote:
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
yeah...so...those inserts xtreme carries, take a guess who makes 'em? ME. i made 10 last week at Vilas. We charge them an assload but they are more than happy to pay it. Stop by some time and talk to Gary about how much they'd charge regular customers. I wouldnt count on it being cheaper than a catalog tho.
I think the heims from Jegs will be the cheapest, but I will run by Xtreme and see what they want.Quote:
I am really happy w/ my steering. As shown, Heims came from JEGS, cheapest chromo heims w/ teflon inserts i could find in about a week of looking and going to stores. Tate might even be willing to part with the tubing he has laying on our garage floor.
:rolleyes:Quote:
Bronco looks good man, hope to see it on the trail soon....maybe even make a trip w/ TAMOR and not just w/ Scott and Warren, who for some unknown reason have refused to join TAMOR for 3 years now. (I dont want to know why, dont hijack your own thread, i really dont care that much)
What do you think about making your drag link mount taller? The higher, the less safe??
why not use tie rod ends?
I am reading around on Pirate, and am realizing that maybe TREs might be the way to go for what I want.
Austin, why did you put the drag link heim in single shear?
I second that. It's a much simpler connection, more reliable, and more durable than heims. That's not too say that heims suck, and you would probably be happy with them, but even the nicest teflon lined heims won't last as long as a Moog TRE. I think you, not to mention your wallet, would be happier in the long run with TREs. Your steering system is going to be operating at some very safe angles, and a TRE can handle them just fine.Quote:
Originally posted by robertf03
why not use tie rod ends?
Ask Ryan St. John how many QA1 heims are still alive on his Cherokee. I think he actually found a teflon insert lying on the groud one time.
That's just my .02 :cheers:
Moog tie rods are $66 a piece. Cheaper brands were not much cheaper.
Xtreme wants $37 for the heims and $13 for the inserts.
yes, the inserts are made of 4340.
i put the mount where it was #1: because of leverage. the pulling and pushing forces get exponentially greater as you move away from the centerlink. #2: because where it is it lines up perfectly with my track bar, which keeps stuff from binding in flex.
i like my heims because comparitavely they are 2x as thick on the rounded part than any other heims i've seen.
HOLY CRAP!!! Make a friend at a car parts store. I just got Chevy "one ton" tie rod ends for ~$25 apiece, and Wrangler ends for $18 apiece. That price is for Moog lifetime warranty tie rod ends from Car Quest. Their cheaper brand was about half that. Yes, WFO Offroad has a cash account there so we get shop prices, but surely you know someone at O'Reilly or NAPA that can help you a little.Quote:
Originally posted by JBrown89
Moog tie rods are $66 a piece. Cheaper brands were not much cheaper.
If you end up using Chevy TREs (their thread is 7/8-18), you can get some DOM from Chadnutz and use weld-in inserts from Poly Performance.
3rd from the bottom, P/N PP-TA14
38s look better, too bad their not mine
What about welding a nut to the end of the DOM and use that to thread in the heim/TRE?Quote:
Originally posted by bburris
HOLY CRAP!!! Make a friend at a car parts store. I just got Chevy "one ton" tie rod ends for ~$25 apiece, and Wrangler ends for $18 apiece. That price is for Moog lifetime warranty tie rod ends from Car Quest. Their cheaper brand was about half that. Yes, WFO Offroad has a cash account there so we get shop prices, but surely you know someone at O'Reilly or NAPA that can help you a little.
If you end up using Chevy TREs (their thread is 7/8-18), you can get some DOM from Chadnutz and use weld-in inserts from Poly Performance.
3rd from the bottom, P/N PP-TA14
I know someone with 4 of those for sale on 8 lug wheels...:DQuote:
Originally posted by JBrown89
38s look better, too bad their not mine
would that person be you? details? hummer rims right?Quote:
Originally posted by Cajun
I know someone with 4 of those for sale on 8 lug wheels...:D
***... that's awesome... truly an idea in response to having a money pit on a college student's budget.Quote:
Originally posted by JBrown89
What about welding a nut to the end of the DOM and use that to thread in the heim/TRE?
:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally posted by froader03
***... that's awesome... truly an idea in response to having a money pit on a college student's budget.
Well I think it knew it was nearing completion and decided to piss me off and start squirting gas through a pinhole leak, with of course a full tank :( I guess I am ordering a new tank tomorrow.
Nope, not mine. 38.5" x 16.5" SXs on 12" wide black Eaton or Bart wheels, can't tell which.Quote:
Originally posted by JBrown89
would that person be you? details? hummer rims right?
Pics can be seen in the "Another rig goes under the knife" thread.
Don't do it!Quote:
Originally posted by JBrown89
I guess I am ordering a new tank tomorrow.
JBweld it...it's totally safe
If you still think you need a new tank after this, find one at a junkyard at your leisure or get a fuel cell later down the road. You'll regret the $100 on a JCWhitney tank.
finished the shackle flip and an looking around for spring centering pins but can't find ones I need. I ordered a new tank b/c the original one was rusty and pretty beat. Also having a friend built a beefier skid.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php...empty rear.jpg
You might try Ace Nut and Bolt in Bryan. I can't remember where Paul found the ones for my Jeep, but if I talk to him this evening I'll ask.
I got spring pins at Napa by Walmart in CS...be sure and bring the remnants of the old ones with you...and a piece of garden hose (they usually need some persuasion before they stop saying "we don't have them" and go in the back and look):D
I got my center pins at NAPA as well.
Mine came from a trailer shop.
I use grade 8 bolts and a little grinding to the heads.
grade eight allen heads- no grinding required
Not to me shown up by Tate...:flipoff2:
rear is done except for the hard lines. I used a flaring tool to flare the hard lines, but they are leaking big time and I can not seem to get a good flared end.
kinda a ride height...it will drop alot in the rear after the gas tank, bumper, tire carrier, spare, and hardtop are on.
4 degree shims up front got me back to about 4.5 degrees castor.
hey john, make sure you double flare the hard lines. also when you cut the lines to length, you have to get a round file and file out the inside of the tube. when you cut it, it gets a little lip that makes double flaring it damn near impossible. after you get this lip off it will work no problem.
how you gonna get it out of there, take all the air out of the tires? It looks a little to big to get out but looks good on a second note. :cheers:
chop dat top yo:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally posted by stx4wheeler
how you gonna get it out of there, take all the air out of the tires? It looks a little to big to get out but looks good on a second note. :cheers:
I keep cracking the ends. When you say double flare, do you jsut mean do it twice?Quote:
Originally posted by StevenAg03
hey john, make sure you double flare the hard lines. also when you cut the lines to length, you have to get a round file and file out the inside of the tube. when you cut it, it gets a little lip that makes double flaring it damn near impossible. after you get this lip off it will work no problem.