This sounds like a fun adventure, any time you need help, let me know Doug, I can meet you at the Kreb-o-perty.
I am going to try to have the klogger ready to rock, look out, it will have 3.55's instead of 3.00's.... And maybe a new cup holder...
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This sounds like a fun adventure, any time you need help, let me know Doug, I can meet you at the Kreb-o-perty.
I am going to try to have the klogger ready to rock, look out, it will have 3.55's instead of 3.00's.... And maybe a new cup holder...
anytime something needs to be tapped, wether it is internal or external, the guys at work use the lathes...they have speed and feed charts on printed on metal tags on the side of the machines. today i watched a guy tap a metal bar with 1.00"-8 using a carbide cutter. when he tapped the matching internal threads he used a regular tap and did it with power on the lathe...
Looks like I'll get the blazer on friday the 29th...
I'm not sure I want to start on the hi-steer arm's until then, but I'm sure someone around here will let me use a dana 60 knuckle to model it. I'm not sure how involved I want to get with ackermann angle at the moment since I don't have definate plans for the buggy... I'll just copy BTF arms or something similar.
Plan for steering is Crossover, tie rod behind the axle with the ram also behind.
What do I need a 1.5" x 8" cylinder?
You need 8" only if your tie rod willhave 8" of travel. Since you're designing your arms, you can make the travel whatever you want. Found out my cylinder costs $380 if one were to buy it from parker.
I'm in!
Talked to Samantha last night....she's been bustin my balls about going to one of her co-workers' weddings on that weekend, so the first thing she said when I told her I would be there that weekend was "Oh good now we can go to that wedding" :mad:
Some how in typical Jerry fashion, I weaseled my way out of that one and convinced her that we should goto Clayton.
Wish I could help you work on the Blazer Krebs, but I'll only be down there twice between now and Clayton, once to Help Samantha move and once for Thanksgiving.
Karl, I'm questioning the sanity of bringing the Klogger on this trip. Maybe you can wheel with a Z-71 or something :flipoff2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
dont buy anything from parker....everyone that works there is crooked... :flipoff2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Pretty soon they'll be wanting to make cages out of it too, right Kopecki? Fawking ridiculous!!
i think i paid close to $100 for a 7/8 18 left hand tap. i had to get it made by a company that we buy tooling from. the right hand i think only paid $40 for it. i used the tailstock to tap my tierod and draglink i never touched the tap with a wrench or tap wrench. just use a 8 point socket and a extension in the chuck. i have also used a really big tap wrench and set it up on the lathe and then turned it on and let it tap. i paid a little over a $100 for the taper to. What TREs are you planning on using?
you can also look at my setup on the heep for tie rod behind the axle. also conley just bought the inserts and i think they were pretty cheap. cheaper than buying the taps and spending time doing it. you could weld them in and then turn the O.D. down to the same as the tie rod. you would never be able to tell that they are welded in.
Man I dont know if I want to do inserts or tap it. Damn decisions...
Mike had a similar dilemma last weekend :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
Can you not make a cutter outta cobalt to turn the threads?
Part # 2584A918 at http://www.mcmaster.com/
$91.60
This one is cheaper, but I don't know if it's any good:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...PMT4NO=1993599
Just as a warning: When we made my steering, I threaded an old TRE with some grease on the threads into the inserts before welding and it was hard as hell to get them out. Threading the TREs in that I wanted to use was still almost impossible. Using 1.5" OD .25" wall DOM meant the 7/8" insert has a really thin wall that is extremely prone to warping. I ended up having to chase the threads with a tap in order to make them work.
When I build another steering setup I'm going to use tube that can simply be tapped instead of using any type of insert.
That would be a real pain in the ass to do with the small ID and the fine pitch. I don't want to waste tubing...Quote:
Originally Posted by fbronco86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
How deep do you thread this hole? I really think the weldin inserts are the way to go. Just my 2 cents