That's more what I was asking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
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That's more what I was asking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
whatnot isn't very specific.
Pressure wash the **** out of it. Degrease the **** out of it. Pressure wash again. Scuff the **** out of it with a red scotchbrite or 220 paper. Pressure wash again, degrease again. Clean once, twice, three more times with acetone or thinner. Tape off what you don't want it on. Wear gloves, old shoes and a tyvek suit, the stuff sticks to skin forever. Very light first coat, let it sit for an hour or two. Then pile on two more coats with a few hrs between each.
They all are about the same quality, just different textures. If your time is worth something then go give an extra hundo to Brett at Texas truck riggins and get it done the right way!
+1 for Texas truck riggins
Nice, I may just have to do that. I don't want it to look ****ty.
So I'm pulling out of my driveway in Arlington and the check engine light comes on. Waited 'til I got back to check it out. Code didn't apply to my vehicle, so I just cleared it and went about my business. It was in the O2 sensor ballpark, but like I said, it didn't apply. It hasn't come back on after a few days of driving, so am I in the clear?
What do you mean it didnt apply?
don't go with the description they give you, lookup the number that corresponds to your code and look it up. I have had the same problem with Autozone the scanner came up with a Ford code when they scanned the Chevy.
This is my programmer/code reader, so it should give chrysler codes.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
But the interwebs say Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 3. It should come back on if something is legitimately wrong though, right? I mean, it's an O2 sensor so either way I'll get to it when I get to it, but still...
Any 2stroke gurus?
I have a dirt bike (rm250 1999) that has plenty of power in gears 2-5 but in first it sputters through the power-band. I would say 80% of the time it sputters and the other 20% it rips right through the gears. This happens when the bike is warm and I've already checked the reed valves which look good to me.
Thanks in advance
This definitely applies to you. If it stays off I wouldn't worry about it but if it comes back on or you notice it running rough or worse gas mileage then I would worry about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.ZAP
I have deleted those heater resistance codes before. Sometimes they come back and I'll replace the indicated O2 sensor or cats. They don't come back. Cats weren't cheap, but all four on the F150 bit the dust. One bank around 160, the other around 200k
It certainly doesn't run rough and I get **** gas mileage either way so it's kinda hard to tell. I feel like I have been getting meh gas mileage as of late, but like I said, that doesn't mean much. :confused2Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
I sure as hell hope that the cats aren't burning out, I only have about 63,500 miles on that thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
I assume you have checked for debris in the carb/tank? also is your fuel/oil mix exact or close?Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Mine was coming on every time I got gas from this one station in bryan, manual says it can happen. Never really stressed it because it wasn't consistent.