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They were unable to extract the broken piece from the diff so looks like I will have to tackle it when I get home. The passenger side measured out to 39 5/8", and now I need to figure out what the drivers side should be as I don't think they are the same lengths. These Yukons (http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=5423) look to be the right lenght for the pass. side, just don't know if the drivers side will require this one (http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=5422).
Can someone school me on the differences of 1541H and 4340c-m?
1541h is basically 1040 with extra manganese for hardenability
4340 is a true alloy steel with chromiun, molydenum and nickel for more hardenability and added toughness over 4140
as for an actual strength of each, it depends heavily on the heat treatment used
if you are itching to spend money, go with the 4340. if not stick with the 1541, its better than stock shafts.
I am trying as hard as I can to not spend any right now, I am still reeling after the last trip. :eek: The 4340 is out of stock anyways, but looks like there is only a few dollars difference in price anyways. Does anyone have a link to somewhere that has the specifics of the different designations (4340, 330m, ...)?
ill pull my drivers side shaft in the next day or so and let you know the measurement
Is your's a dually also? For the life of me I can't remember and it is too late and I am too lazy to look it up right now. If ya have the time, can you get me the measurement on both of them. I will dance at your wedding if you do. ;)
ill get them pulled when the weather clears up some, and yes it is a dually
cool beans man. :gigem:
if he cant, i will, ive got the same axle out in the barn
sweeticles! (really though, what the hell does that mean? :confused: )
I found the 39" shafts at Ron's Machining for a good bit cheaper than what Randy's offers them.
http://www.ronsmachiningservice.net/servlet/StoreFront
Part # for refference 225SL-58A ( Detriot locker)
Can some one with a highsteer chevy dana 60 measure their tie rod for me. I am thinking about going to a "rear" highsteer and want to run hiems on it to help out with some of the hydroassist issues I am having. WFO is the only one with rear facing tierod arms that i have come across so far, but I am still looking into it.
brian has them from wfo rear flip. give him hell cause i bet he still hasn't given you the shaft measurements
Sky Mfg has double arms too. There's plenty of info on Pirate about arms.
:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
I talked to the ORD guy yesterday and he said they have never had any trouble before with theirs so I am going to try some 4deg shims that he recomended and try them first. As soon as I get home I am going to call up WFO and have him send me a new tierod with the heims on it to see if it helps with the 'roll' of the tie rod.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
i would go with wfo. trevor is the man when it comes to customer service and their products are very nice.
I got that impression while I was talkin with him the other night.
I was able to get the broken 70 shaft out this afternoon. We found a long piece of 3/8" rebar and pushed it out of the axle. It was a fairly painless operation once we had a peice that was long enough and thin enough to go through the hole in the middle of the detroit. I don't know exactly how big the hole is, but I would take a guess and say that anything over 1/2" would not make it through.
When I went to install the new shafts, I found that they were the right length, correct spline count, but the wrong bolt pattern on the flanges. The pattern is a 3.56" spread on the axle, and the shafts had a 3.9" spread. :( Now I need to try and locate the correct shafts tomorrow. I am going to take the new ones down to Bryan tomorrow morning and see if someone can drill out the correct pattern on them (I should be able to weld up the existing holes with out too much trouble. Any thoughts on who would be the best place to take them to?
I am pretty sure the front slip shaft is down at the house, but I ran out of light to look for it, so I will be up bright and early to get the rest of it up to the driveway so I can get it all together.
pictures please
Glad tp see ya back. Ya might look in waco for a better machine shop. Creighton, what was that machine shop that did your D300 shift rails?
Vilas Motor Works is a good shop, tell them you are friends with Austin Roberts and they will be good to you. This is one of the times when Austin's name will actually help you
Is it just a bolt circle? I normally would say I could do it pretty easily, but it sounds like they are locking up campus pretty tight tomorrow. The off campus mill doesn't have a DRO.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Call me anyways, maybe I can get in.
I got plenty accomplished today. The 4 deg. shims are in, along with the front anti-wrap. I rotated the ram mount forward and dropped it a bit to hopefully aleviate some of the problems we have had with the hydro-assist. I also mounted the rear BBCS shocks and replaced the two rear bolts holding the bed down (and I also put a new puck in the right side so hopefully I won't have the 'floppy bed syndrome' anymore :D ). It is wheelable now (other than needing another 70 shaft), just need to work on the tach and speedo, mount the second propane tank bracket set, wire the winch controler, and mount the radio and cb. I will get some pictures up tomorrow when I get back from the JYds.
here are a few pics...
front antiwrap bracket
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...anti-wrap1.jpg
front shackle angle (I think I may push the front hangers back an inch or two and see if it helps on the flex a bit.)
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ackleangle.jpg
I think I am going to move the shackle flip hangers forward a bit also to see if it helps some.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ackleangle.jpg
bbcs installed
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...earshocks1.jpg
top shock mount (nothin real serious, but turned out decent)
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...rearshock2.jpg
Think about turning that rear shock mount 90 deg. as it extendes and compresses it's going to be putting that upper bushing in a bind. It may not move that much, just something to check out. Progress looks good.
This was a concernt when I was contemplating how to mount it, but once i get the "Ike'd" tree off of the rti ramp, I am going to check out how it flexes. I am thinking that the shock should match the axle travel somewhat. I will try to get some flex shots when I do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Poser :flipoff2:
more pictures of the front antiwrap bar please
oh snap!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
I will get some when it gets up on the ramp.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
:DOH:
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...illartiein.jpg
Here ya go creighton...
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...anti-wrap3.jpg
is that the cage tie in?:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
did you weld the tube to the pumpkin on the anti-wrap side?
no, not yet. It's on the short list though.
I put a tape to the axles yesterday while I had the tires off.
Front
WMS-WMS: 77"
OoT-OoT (Outside of tire to Outside of Tire):90 1/4"
Rear
WMS-WMS: 73 1/4"
OoT-OoT: 86 1/4"
I have been looking at dimensions of buggies lately, and most are running between 91-99"s wide. I am thinking of having the H1's recentered to widen the front a couple of inches to keep the tires out of the leaf springs and frame, and have the rears widened to match. What's the width some of you fullsize guys are running?
are those the cage tie ins?
what buggies are you seeing that are that wide?
X-Rated's :laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
...
Lookin back in a couple of crawls.
and yes, that is the B pillar on the passenger side.
one of these days alice, one of these days, bang, zoom, straight to the moon...Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
BTW, I started notchin the boggers tonite, I will have some pictures of it at the meeting...