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Ryan's driveshaft broke because he was too cheap to buy heavier material. My front shaft is 2" 1/4 wall inner and 2 1/2" 3/16 wall outer and it hasnt broken in 2 years of rock bashing. I'd go for it. At high speeds it will vibrate like a mofo but thats not usually an issue anyway. You have to grease them almost every trip too but thats no biggie, you could put grease zerks in it like Eric did. I wouldnt do a square shaft for the rear though, unless your truck sees absolutely zero street time.
my rear shaft is a high angle shaft with like 10 in of slip and 1350 u joints, my front shaft twisted due to me being cheap like sharpe said, but the only reason i break caps and ujoints is because of my kick ass axle wrap and it a 1310 joint.
but i agree with sharpe only use square in the front.
Well this is for the rear, so I need to figure out a new option.
Repairing my front main leak for the past couple days. I drained the oil and there was alot of coolant in it. Like more than normal. I hope its not a head gasket.
Side note, the other day when I fixed the trans leak and put the t-case back in, I refilled the trans up with fluid with the truck running, got in it, and shifted through the gears a little bit, but it wouldn't move and it would grind like a mofo when I shifted back into reverse or park.. I seriously sat there for 20minutes before I realized that I hadn't yet put the rear driveshaft in. Thats my dumbass moment of the week
how much coolant in your oil is normal?
seats and cage look pimp. Time for some narrowing? :D
Bought some H1s. Of course they need all the necessary work to fit though.
sweet!
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
You uhh want to help me out with all the recentering? :D
Got most of the front of the motro back together but said **** it and starting working on a little graduation present....
The winch touches the trans cooler, but I was able to fix that with homemade rubber spacer. Besides that, its was a super clean kit and everything went together nicely.
Drawbacks to the winch are that it is a special short drum xd9000 made for this kit, so it only has 50ft of cable, and you also have to pop the hood to access the control pack, but I do not plan on using the winch too often.....but I am headed for a couple of weeks in SW Colorado soon, so it will be nice to have it.
I am going to carry some chain or extra length of cable in the toolobox.
looks nice and clean
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
usa6x6 centers? if you want 3 5/8" backspacing, sure. if you want anything other than that, no way, ive had my fill.
let me know when you get ready to do it either way and what centers you are going to use. ill have some good pointers for you. hindsight is 20/20 you know.
looks good...
what size bfg mud did you put on the grey truck
same size tires as the ATs I had before 285/70/17
Broke a front driveshaft u-joint in SPring. My new problem is steering. I can not remember when it happend, but I lost all power steering. I got a workout the rest of the day unitl I broke the u-joint, then I could steer just fine...... So steering good in 2wd, steering bad in 4wd. Whats up with that? Same thing happenend in Katemcy and I muscled it for about an hour and then all worked well again.
Ideas? I am thinking somethings in a bind or my locker is acting strange.
Sounds like your locker is not unlocking.
what locker do you have?
detroit locka
Wheeled at BVORR today. Blew another bead and rolled it on the pass. side, but was able to drive out of it. Getting the H1s and hydro-asist are next on the list.
The steering in 4wd was fine too. Suggesting on itermintent power steering? Its almost like the belt is slipping on the pulley when it is wet b/c of course it is dry today
saw you drive by while eating dinner @ cazadores. looks like your spare is about to fall off.
took it out to general sams today and wheeled for about an hour until i broke my finger. I hit rut and the steering wheel spun hard a broke my pinky. I spent 2 hours at the Med getting it fixed. typing with one hand sucks
that sucks! hydro assist time?
bring me your box ill show you how
were your fingers inside the wheel? Normaly you hear of thumbs, pinky is a new one. At least they didn't have to sew it back on. ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
so you gonna tap his box for him?!?! :rainbow:
:flipoff2:
i was just cruising down a watery trail not really paying attention when i hit a deep rut under the water on the drivers side. water was coming in the cab. When I hit it, the wheel spun hard. some how the pinky got in the way. i actually broke the bone in my hand (boxer fracture). I almost got stuck b/c i stopped and screamed like a girl. Some nice atv guys helped me get it strapped back on the trailerQuote:
Originally Posted by Jackasic
preview. THese are the copperhead rings just resting on the old wheels. I got the h1 wheels blasted today, hopefully can get them all put together in the next week
those are going too look sweet
x 2
:rainbow: :flipoff2:
you just wish you had rims that looked that coolQuote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
I installed (read: zip tied to cage) some $4 front speakers and fixed the rears. IT BUMPS :gigem: Hey Ryan, what does your stereo sound like :flipoff2:
Is there some special thread pitch to the bolt holes in the block for the motor mounts? (86ish 302) I have solid mounts from JBG and I continually have the bolts backing out even with locktite and lock washers. I am not using the original bolts. Are they some sort of special tapered bolt? I think it is 3/8" I drove it home from the store the other day with no bolts holding hte motor in.
My H1s are all blasted and ready for some welding hopefully tomorrow. The guys that blasted them also of course blasted the beadlock studs. Should I paint these studs/threads? Does anyone know where I can find the NEW beadlock studs? I can not find them in any Dorman/Motormite book.
I used longer 7/16" bolts and tapped 2 of the 4 engine mount holes in the block today.. It sucked doing this with the motor in, bu tit is good now.
Hey John, I found these wheel studs that I think might work, but as you can see in the picture, they are slighly shorter. You would also have to grind a little bit off the side of the head to fit into the wheel. THe knurl though is dead on and fits nice and tight in the wheel(once you grind the head of course) Down side is they sell in a set of 10 and are $32 for the set. $100+ in studs is no bueno. Dorman # 610-298
screw it, we'll run a die over the ones you have and paint em. they'll work fine.
My camera blows, but wanted to post some additions. PolyPerformance grab handles came in today. Also made some stainless steel boat beerholders work :gigem:
Got a TSC toolbox of craigslist for 75. Secured it to the cage with some exhaust clamps.
I traded Cox some parts for some welding so the wheels are all done and ready for paint and mounting. Thanks alot.
Got this in the mail today. It is for my F150. Due to the hidden style design, you have to pop the hood to hook up the controller, which is kinda a pain.
The panel is a little bigger than I expected, but it really is of nice quality. I am going to mount it to the left of the column and a little bit down, so it wont be to obvious.
..
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/5...e/img_0514.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/5...e/img_0515.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/5...e/img_0516.jpg
I went with blue "metal speck" paint. It matches fairly well, but I havent seen them in the daylight yet. Mounting this ****ers is hard work. The overall combo is almost 150lbs.
looks b!tchin