Got the bumper hung and fixed some cracking in the floor and seat mounts.
I need to do some exhaust work and fix the check engine light bulb and get it inspected.
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Printable View
Got the bumper hung and fixed some cracking in the floor and seat mounts.
I need to do some exhaust work and fix the check engine light bulb and get it inspected.
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I hear accordians
I heard ford is bringing the bronco back in 2020....
Went wheeling at Hidden Falls today. The weather was fantastic and the bronco did great. This was the first trip with 37s and the new seats. The seats made a huge difference in comfort and the tires had awesome traction everywhere.
I also did a side exit exhaust this past week. I like that the exit is out of the way of rocks and trail obstacles and no more fumes in the cab.
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Cant see your pics, maybe bc im not on tapatalk?
Bronco when travis bought it and now
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Super cute picture in front of the Bronco Buster trail sign at Hidden Falls
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Side exit exhaust
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Hopefully you don't sell out like Tummy...
Talk to me about parking brakes. Right now I have a 9 inch in the back with a disk brake swap using el dorado calipers, but my problem is that I don't have the parking brake cable brackets so they don't do anything over what a chevy truck front caliper does. I can get the brackets but I have to buy new calipers to get them and everything I've read says they aren't worth it. I need something that's 5x5.5 and disk, I don't know what everyone is using that works well. I'm not opposed to a driveline brake or swapping out my rear disk setup to a different one but I want it to work well.
I say go for the driveline break. The elderado parking brake was crap.
Jones has a pretty sweet setup, its a master cylinder up on the parking brake. You plumb your rear brake line thru it, under normal operation your rear brake line goes in it and it just passes fluid thru. When you depress the pedal on the e-brake it holds then uses the extra master cylinder.
What about using a line lock?
Not sure what Tommy is going for, but a line lock won't pass a state inspection, The Jones fake parking brake system will as long as the guy doesn't look too close.
With some quick googling it looks like all I need is a remote reservoir master cylinder, some fittings, and make a bracket, seems easy enough. Does Jones have any complaints about it bleeding down? I'm sure it would take a while for it to happen but I saw someone mention that when I was googling.
No line lock. I've heard too many complaints about them not working right when you leave them on. I also don't want anything electric in my parking brake.
There's also the option of just doing a shutoff valve but then I'd have to route brake lines inside and it also wouldn't pass inspection.
I've been planning to add a shut off valve on mine, but if you're trying to pass inspection, I don't think that would work either. I think a "real" parking brake must be all mechanical.
What are you trying to accomplish? Pass inspection, have an operational parking brake, or both?
That being said, last time my jeep was inspected, they didn't catch on that parking brake didn't do anything (it wasn't hooked to anything). They just pushed the pedal, then released it....
Both, my bronco is a stick at least for now so I'd like a better way than turning it off and leaving it in gear for the trail. There were a few times in clayton I didn't trust leaving in gear so I just stayed in the bronco instead of helping spot or watching. By law, it doesn't matter if it's mechanical or hydraulic, it just had to be separate from the rear caliper or wheel cylinder that's used under normal braking. The piggyback master cylinder isn't technically legal but would pass and not be noticed if hooked up right.
The Jegs brand electric line lock I had on Pigpen would get hot as **** when left engaged for extended periods and started to get stuck in the closed position after a year or so. I'd have to get out and whack it with a stick to get it to disengage. They're only meant for intermittent use. I'm pretty sure hydraulic brakes are not allowed at all for e-brakes.
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Doesn't say what it can or can't be, just that if any one part breaks, you can't lose both systems. There's some medium duty trucks with hydraulic parking brakes.
It does say leakage is not allowed and I think they are meaning hydraulic leakage. All the big boy trucks I have seen have air brakes and the e-brake dumps the air, but I'm no diese***ogist.
Same basic concept. They use a power steering pump to build pressure to release the brake. It's a drum setup that has 2 wheel cylinders, one for normal hydraulic braking and the other has springs in it that will lock up the brakes if there's no pressure to release them, so there's no leak down there. I just after something that'll hold the bronco on a hill and pass an inspection
I got a wilwood 260-6089 remote master cylinder and made this bracket that mounts on the frame right where the e brake cable would normally split to 2 cables. The cable pulls on one side of the lever, and the other pushes the master cylinder shaft in. It's all mounted and plumbed and it works like it should I just need to bleed it more and it should be good to go.
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And the pinion is toast
I heard about these new axles called sterlings, you should buy one.
Nope. 9 inches have more pinion bearings than a sterling so that doesn't solve anything. I haven't broken a shaft.
What's wrong with the pinion?
So you're going to frag three 9" diffs before saying **** it and just putting a sterling in like Cook did?
****ty parts. When I did my 1350 yoke, it all went together fine, and got my reference marks spot on for reassembly, but the yoke is a tenth or two shorter than the old one from the end to where the pinion nut lands. I didn't notice when I put it together because the pinion bearing is pressed on and I couldn't move it by hand when I wiggled it, but it worked it's way loose. New pinion bearings, crush washer eliminator, and a spacer from Strange for the yoke and it'll be good. I caught it before it ****ed up the pinion and ring gear.
Still not doing one tons.
Got the pinion support back together and installed and put some deaver coils in the front because full size bronco says you have to if you want to have a real bronco.
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Also the ebrake works very well, it'll stall out before the tires move in 1st gear.
Or more horsepower :flipoff2:
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Bronco didn't like highway speeds so I had the driveshaft reworked. Hopefully it's good for the street now.
New driveshaft fixed it right up. Goes down the highway at whatever 70 on the speedo actually is with 37s and 410s.
Got it inspected and got a new windshield in it today, and going to hidden falls tomorrow.
It still needs some steering gear box help. I'm going to try to adjust it tomorrow before heading out.
Inland truck parts in Austin. They reworked my old shaft that I made out of a superduty front driveshaft. Not sure what they would charge for a new one but I've had good luck with them for balancing and reworking old driveshafts.
Took the bronco and the honda out to hidden falls this past saturday. The new deaver coils up front ride smoother on the trail, but i'm not real sure they helped flex at all. The bronco did great up until the belt shredded. While I was putting the spare belt on I noticed the balancer had rubber hanging out the back, so I parked it for the rest of the day and rode the 4 wheeler. I put a new balancer on it already so it's good to go again. The honda is still a piece of ****. The electric shift has me carrying a wrench to shift it and the starter quit in the parking lot on the way out.
I think the next thing on the bronco is a better rear leaf setup. I think I'm going to un-shackle flip it and put some deavers and longer shackles in it.